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Board index » All Posts (55PackardGuy)




Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#11
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55PackardGuy
Thanks Howard. The wiring diagrams are good in the manual. They showed two splices in the trunk. I checked the wiring and it seemed sound. Of course, since the direction signals and the driving lamps work, it shouldn't be a problem back there.

However, the manual also advises to LOOK FOR SHORTS under the dash. Lo and behold, I found one!

The wire is a cloth-covered one that seems to go to the back of the instrument panel. It may even go to the Oil Light, that quit working. I just happened to have the key on and saw a spark... I had notices the wear-through on the insulation. But, since I saw a spark, there must be current there, so it apparently didn't blow a fuse. I found where it was rubbing on a cable.

Pics to follow. No meter. Just following the wires, learning a lot. But no brake lights yet! No brake lights, no car.

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Posted on: 2019/7/4 16:41
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#12
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55PackardGuy
I changed the order of the last few pics and added a couple for more clarity.

Everything is connected to everything else, as they say. I don't have Ultramatic, so I don't know if there is a mate for that wire to plug into.

It'll take a methodical approach. I hope the folks on the forum can get something out of this info. It took quite a while to get all the pics together. Happy motoring to you!


Guy

Posted on: 2019/6/30 19:44
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#13
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55PackardGuy
If anyone is still following this, they might want to look at some pics that show a lot of what I investigated. Oh yeah, now the oil light isn't on. I think all these new troubles (since I discovered the stop lights didn't work) have been self-inflicted due to trying to "fix" things."

I am no expert, but the pictures may be helpful to some of you on the forums. I'm not an expert on posting photos here, either, but I've done it before and will try to do it again and give clear explanations.

Here's the first one. It's looking down toward the top of the MC. Green, orange, and yellow going into the bundle, and yellow going with yellow and, I believe white and green:

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Posted on: 2019/6/30 15:19
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#14
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55PackardGuy
Thanks Howard,

Good advice indeed. I have one of those little test lights, I think. I presume they work on 6v as well as 12. The yellow and black wires to the right rear (Passenger Side) tail lamp... Could Mr. Black be the culprit of this whole thing? I doubt it because the running lights and signals work on both tail lamps. I think that rules out Mr. Black.

Thanks for all your help. It is now up to the challenge of figuring out on my own. I'd much prefer that to taking it back to the mechanics. I want to see with my own eyes where the open or short is.

I just wish I hadn't messed around under the dash and in the trunk when I got it back from the shop. I usually check the stop lights every time before I go somewhere, but of course when I brought it back from there, I was in a hurry... I'm learning to never be in too much of a hurry with these old cars... especially starting out. Note to self: check everything every time (withing reason).

I kind of doubt anything has been radically modified. The person who owned the car before me was as obsessive as me about keeping things stock (except the paint, which is not a bad match for the Bikini Blue, and available at my local parts store through GM).

The previous owner passed away and I bought the car from his brother, who never bothered much about it because it wasn't a Studebaker. It's just possible that I am only the 3rd long-term owner of the car. It has 80,000 on the odometer.

But things happen. It obviously sat outside for some time, on a slant, with the driver's side lower. It droops on that side, and there's water damage under the driver's seat next to the rocker pane -- rusted through a fairly large hole, but it's "plugged" by yours truly. It's been a good reliable car, though. I will post pics of the wiring at some point here.

_ Guy

Posted on: 2019/6/28 9:39
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#15
Home away from home
Home away from home

55PackardGuy
HH,


I've been looking at a lot of things. You might call it "monkeying around" but I'm seeing a lot and learning where things go. Two of the terminals in the hydraulic switch (which seem to be firmly connected) are an orange and a green wire. I took pics of all of this, but speaking from memory here: Coming out of the switch and bundled with other wires is our friend the yellow wire. Coming out of the bundle and going down through a grommet are a green, an orange and our friend, Mr. Yellow. I suspect these go through the firewall. There is also another wire of unknown color and origin going through at this point. Then, under the dash we find Mr. Yellow, Mr. Green and Mr. Orange (just think "Reservoir Dogs" if you saw that).

Under the dash I found one disconnected wire hanging down, but alas, it was Mr. Black. But maybe a ground wire that needs to go somewhere. The end of it was fitted to go into a plug type connector. It was hanging right where the wires were headed up into the steering column but was much too short to go up there. Does it connect behind instrument panel maybe? IDK

Then to the trunk. Followed the bundle of wires in there along left side. There is an entirely separate wire going to the trunk light switch from this bundle. I had NO IDEA that there was a mercury switch in the trunk light. (I had hunted all over to find a push-in switch like a door switch.) It looks like the unit is riveted in. I'll try to "tickle" it though. (The bulb is new and I cleaned to socket.)

More fun in the trunk with Mr. Yellow: He came out of the bundle of wires and went across the floor on at the back of the trunk. (that is, the edge nearest the bumper) and went through several links and maybe a fuse? I tried to upset as little as possible. I found the wires going through the grommet. I know these go to the license plate lights and the fuel gauge sender (a single wire goes there).

The yellow wire shows up along this route and as far as I can see ENDS at the bulb socket for the right rear tail light. It does NOT go to the left tail light. (I believe the wires going to the left tail light are green and orange). Which would make sense. Mr. Green, Mr. Orange and Mr. Yellow all wind up at the tail lights. The end. And nobody gets killed.


I have no electrical sense, no meter. All I got is my hands, my eyes, electrical tape, extra wire and some connectors, and a good set of tools. I never could read a schematic.

It's really essential to find out why the lights went out and where the fix is, rather than to have them start working again "for no reason." That would be awful. Sometimes when things "fix themselves" it's a very bad deal. Especially with electrical things.


Thanks for staying with me on this. Brake lights are so essential.


Guy

Posted on: 2019/6/27 14:54
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#16
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55PackardGuy
HH,

More great stuff. The trunk light and gauges were out long before the brake lights went out, so there is probably no link between them. I bet it's the connection at the end of the MC. The wire was probably pulled out at shop. That would be a relief. Not my fault!

The courtesy light works by the switch, but it didn't used to. The mechanics fixed that a long time ago and I don't know how.

The rear loom comes in on the left side of the trunk along the fender, then goes to the floor after it powers the left tail light.

There is a wire going from the loom to the trunk light. It looks good, but the light doesn't work. I believe it's on the same circuit as the sending unit for the fuel tank, so that gauge might not be an instrument panel problem - who knows, maybe the sending unit is bad. The book shows how to test it, but as I mentioned before, there's no access panel in trunk so you'd have to drop the tank.

The temp gauge is really the most important one that's not working.

But the brake lights come first.

Incidentally, the right license plate light works, but the left does not. I believe I checked the bulb long ago and it was good.

Thanks again for all the great info which will be useful now and in the futre.

--- Guy

Posted on: 2019/6/25 11:42
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#17
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55PackardGuy
Wow! That shows/says it all. Thanks! I have been under the dash and in the trunk lately. Rooting around for cause of inoperative fuel and temp gauges (left side of instrument panel). I did not find anything loose, but I might've jiggled something. Also looked in trunk for wire to sending unit from tank, and why my trunk light doesn't work. (The wiring diagram in the service manual shows all of these on same circuit.)

So, I might've jiggled something, or, the mechanic who just had the car in for an oil change/lube/inspection might've disconnected something. He said he put in brake fluid (which I didn't ask for. I check it regularly and don't want it overfull or mixed with anything I don't know about).

Is there something close to the MC like a wire he might've disconnected?

I've got some more sleuthing to do, armed with excellent information now. Everyone: look out for that parking brake handle when you're under the dash. Ouch.

Questions showing more of my ignorance: Which end of the power brake unit is the Brass Block on and what does the switch look like? Do you get at it from inside or outside or underneath?

Thanks again,

Guy

Posted on: 2019/6/23 17:32
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
#18
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55PackardGuy
I'm resurrecting this thread because it speaks to a problem that just popped up. My brake lights don't work. Tail lights and signals do. Some of the information on the thread so far is helpful, but it deals mostly with problems after the brake light switch.

This is a '54 Clipper Deluxe with Easamatic brakes.

(Brake/tail lights have always worked except when left bulb loosens up sometimes.)


Questions:

1. Location of brake light switch on Easamatic.

2. Location of wiring supplying power to the switch and
from the switch to the tail lamps.

3. Location or description of wires/ connections/relays under dash? (in addition to those offered already by HH).

4. Any wires running near the master cylinder or under the car?

5. Wire description for brake lights in trunk. (again, in addition to those above by HH)


-- Additional info on location and description of wires would be helpful.


I couldn't find this information in the Shop Manual.

Thanks for any help you fellows can give.

Guy

(If this info is discussed in another thread, I apologize. I found this thread through a search for brake light switch.)

Posted on: 2019/6/23 14:22
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Good 6v Battery
#19
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55PackardGuy
Would anyone like to comment on their favorite 6v batter? My old reliable NAPA Farm Equipment battery won't hold a charge any more. I'm looking first for power and reliability, not much about "period correctness."

Underhood, there isn't much of correctness, except I just bought a yet-to-be-installed NOS voltage regulator! So maybe my next correct purchase could be a battery. Maybe the battery failure is due to the old regulator?

Any thoughts, much appreciated.

Posted on: 2017/5/30 9:03
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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Re: Tire Shopping for a '54 Clipper
#20
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55PackardGuy
An Update:

I am quite happy with the radials I ended up buying last spring. 235 75R size, with medium size (about 1 1/2") white walls.


1. The predictions posted on this thread that were accurate:

a. The tires are about the right diameter. The speedo still reads about 10 mph fast, though. I think it's time to calibrate it.

b. They ride better than the bias ply tires did.

c. They handle and brake better than the bias ply.

d . They had a tendency to leak at the beads, but some extra stick-um when they were re-mounted seemed to fix that.



2. One thing that was predicted that didn't happen.

a. The radials didn't break the wheel rims up on hard cornering.


3. One thing I wished for that didn't come true:

a. I couldn't find anything with a wider white sidewall (one that went all the way to the rim) for any reasonable price.


3. A couple of other things I found out:

a. You can get 4 pretty decent white sidewall radials for $500 mounted. Time will tell how good they'll turn out to be. But with the number of miles I drive, they'll do quite well, I think.

b. Buying locally really helped when it came to fitting the tires and re-mounting (free) when necessary. Also, I got a firsthand look at them, including tread and sidewall. Shopping around helped. I wound up buying them from an independent dealer.

c. The wheel in the trunk with the old 8.00 spare on it turned out to be the only Clipper wheel on the car. That probably explains why it had four L78 tires on it, and an old, bald spare. I asked to have the best old L78 tire mounted on that wheel, and it didn't fit! Someone must have put Senior wheels on the car at some point. If so, I'm happy, they're just right. But I have a "space saver" spare! It holds air, anyway.

Posted on: 2016/10/11 20:29
Guy

[b]Not an Expert[/
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