Thanks, I look forward to spending some time enjoying. You have some nice looking cars also.

We also have a 22nd series, similiar to a 23rd series that I grew us with, but always loved the prewar cars, fifty some years ago there was this nice 7 passenger 180, but I couldn't talk dad into providing the 75.00 purchase price, I've wanted one of that vintage ever since.

Thanks, I'll approach it from that angle, the cover of the regulator appears as new, but no guarantee that it's of the correct type.

Thanks, this will give me a starting point and hopefully a fix.

Recently purchased a 1940 110 Coupe, steering seems to have a lot of free movement in the various steering joints, are there adjustments you would suggest before I attempt replacing parts?

Recently purchased a 1940 110 Coupe. Prior owner said transmission would sometimes jump out of first gear. To your knowledge is there any external adjustment that would cure this or do I have an internal problem?

Recently purchased a 1940 110 Coupe. Prior owner said headlights only worked on high beams, to me it does seem to swap from high to low beams, but in either position the ampere meter shows a constant discharge condition, revving the engine does not bring it to the charge position. When using only parking lights or fog lights, speeding up the engine will bring the ampere meter to the charge position.

Do you feel I should be looking at the generator/voltage regulator or a problem with the headlights themselves? I did try connecting only one headlight at a time with the same results.

I seem to get the same results with the mirrors on my 1948, see some from the drivers mirror, little useful vision on the passenger side.

Jim in Boone

Quote:

I've no personal experience with these radios so let's just call my comment an off the wall idea based on what I see in your photo.

The drum looks similar to the brass drums that hold the main springs in certain clocks and the gears in the unit seem similar to those in a clock movement.

If there is no easy to obtain replacement I'd ask a clock maker if he could fabricate such a drum or put you on to a specialiest that makes gears.

Jim in Boone, NC

I certainly wouldn't argue with the experts, I may well be thinking of something totally different or misunderstanding the item in question.

I could easily see where a washer would be useful under the items shown in the illustration "picture 10" as these seem to screw on from the back side of the sheet metal. I do remember attachments of this type with a washer.

The item I remember being used at the Buick dealer for their nameplate and for many other emblems and scripts on vehicles that I painted was rather like item number 3136 shown in "picture 11".

It had a samll lip and was pressed into a hole in the sheet metal from the front side and the pins on the reverse of the dealer nameplate or script were just a pressure fit.

Jim

Long ago I worked in a Buick dealer paint shop, don't remember rubber washers being used at that time.

The fender or trunk lid was drilled to rather tightly fit the retainer which was pressed into the hole from the front or outside of the fender or trunk lid.

When the "script" or "dealer nameplate" was installed the pins on it's reverse were a tight press fit into the retainers.

Doesn't seen there would have been much room for any leakage, but I do seem to remember in some cases the "Dum-Dum" being pressed around the retainer on the inside of the trunk lid or fender after the "script" was installed as an extra precaution against leakage.

Jim