Once again thanks! I did oil the wick but it didn't occur to me to check if it still rotates. I replaced the cable because the inner cable snapped near the speedometer and the outer shielding was damaged. I figured it was that damage that broke the cable. I will definitely check the speedometer before driving.

I'm amazed how that little bit of corrosion at the end of the cable kept it from sliding in the transmission.

10-13-16

I tried using some emery paper on the end of the speedometer cable. The transition area was shiny so I gave it a try. No improvement. I was crushed with disappointment. Out came the cable so I could send it back.

Started to. Go back in the house and kept thinking how unlikely it seemed for Packard to have changed the size of the end of the cable. The first cable that was sent to me was also rusty at the end but still fit.

Then I thought I'm already dirty. Might as well dig out my grinder with a wire wheel on it and see what happens. I polished the end as shiny as a newly minted quarter and crawled under the car again. With a half hearted effort I stuck the cable in the transmission and all of a sudden....it fit!

I was delighted! Put the cable back in. Doesn't seem to have any sharp bends with my routing. I won't know if it works until I drive the car.

Just about to take the car off the jack stands and I remembered I forgot to try to tighten the governor with the channel lock pliers! Back under the car I go. No success getting the pliers in a position to turn the governor so it is what it is.

Now to find time to test all of this work!

Wow Howard it never occurred to me to try cleaning the end of the cable! Great idea! I will give it a try when the weather cooperates. As for routing I'm starting to think the clothespins were to replace missing clamps. I have it running through the triangular mount on the side of the Trans and to the speedo hole. I don't care as long as it works. Doesn't seem to have any sharp bends this way.

10-11-16

Argh! I got the replacement speedometer cable to replace the first one today and it doesn't fit! The speedometer gear fits and works the cable perfectly. The cable is around 2 inches shorter than my original, but I was still able to get it to the right spot on the transmission. Maybe I'm not routing it like I should. Problem came when I went to put it in the transmission. It will only go 3/4 of the way in! No matter how much I wiggled or even when I left the speedometer gear out, it will not go in. I tried the first cable and that one would go in. I have no idea what is going wrong!

Attach file:

---

  (316.61 KB)


  (378.53 KB)


  (195.56 KB)

I was told that to test charging, disconnect the battery while the car is running. If it dies then the generator/alternator is not working. I'm guessing that your issue is polarizing. That fixed my issue.

10-5-16

Thanks Wes, I remember someone making a wrench but couldn't remember where. Maybe I can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight to cut down or try the channel locks. Kind of wish I would have taken mine apart to clean after seeing yours.

I thought I was taking a break from under car work, but that was not to be. Working on the switch from below was easier. Switch was taken in and out...a couple of swears...and it is in position. Problem is with the longer shaft, the top of the switch hits the lip of metal above it. I feel like I should have more "floor" to the accelerator, but without carpet or mats, maybe it will be OK. I guess I won't know until I drive it, assuming it all works in the end. The modified split washer seems to work. Last part is to connect power wire that on the diagram connects to the ignition switch, but on my car it connected behind the instruments so that is probably where I will put it.

Attach file:

---

  (125.25 KB)


  (64.21 KB)


  (116.40 KB)


  (120.16 KB)

Good idea! I didn't see a lot of room for tools around it but I'll give that a try when I am putting in the speedometer cable.

10-4-16

Instead of working on the kickdown switch I talked myself into crawling under the car. I was able to complete the overdrive wiring under the car. Nothing remarkable about that. Then came the governor. I felt all over it and could not find a point that would accept a wire. Then like a miracle, the whole thing turned! Turns out it was in there loose so I was able to easily unscrew it.

Even on the ground I could not see any place for a wire. Brake cleaner and a screwdriver were called into action to cut through the hard muck that covered it. I cleaned it the best I could and saw the stub of where a wire used to be!

I figured I would attach a wire to that and a bullet connector on the other end to connect it to the lockout switch. Of course I made it harded than necessary by trying to first add a crimp connector that I had no room to squeeze properly. The solution was solder. I put too much solder on and then a little more for good measure. Covered it up with shrink wrap and no one is the wiser.

Screwed the governor back in. Tried to use a strap wrench to tighten it, but couldn't get it around and I don't have a wrench big enough. My only solution was to hand tighten it the best I could.

Gerry found a verified working speedometer cable so there will be another trip under the car. In the next few days I will turn my attention to the kickdown switch while waiting for the new cable.

Attach file:

---

  (223.54 KB)


  (164.58 KB)


  (327.14 KB)


  (304.03 KB)


  (182.06 KB)


  (229.59 KB)


  (124.47 KB)

Thanks Howard, my universal switch doesn't have a notch to use the tab so it never occurred to me an OEM switch would! Makes sense and I hope the universal won't turn in use. I got a split washer because it was nice and thick and already cut. I cut out a quarter of it and crushed it flat in my vice. Hoping to give it a try tomorrow.

10-2-16

Been raining around here so not much progress. Today I got the wiring in the engine bay done and worked on installing the overdrive kickdown switch. I'm using a universal one from NAPA that Ross recommended. The shaft is longer than an original (missing from my car) but it does not matter. I had to loosen the slotted screws on the toe board by the accelerator pedal to loosen the switch bracket enough to get the switch in.

It was a major pain trying to get the jamb nut on the switch but finally did it. Got it mostly tighten down and was trying to adjust it when I realized the switch was missing the linkage.

Took the switch out and noticed a strange notch on the bracket. It looks like it might be factory but I don't know. The raised portion seems to pull the switch toward the drivers side fender which keeps the linkage from contacting it.

Is the bracket supposed to be that way or was mine messed with for some reason? Maybe I can add a shim on the opposite side to force the switch back the other way? I don't see any adjustment points to move the linkage. There is a hole at the end of the linkage so I was starting to think a piece was missing, but according to the drawing from the manual, it does not have an extra piece at the end (9.11361 in the pic at the end).

Attach file:

---

  (175.88 KB)


  (146.66 KB)


  (81.72 KB)


  (59.60 KB)


  (71.22 KB)


  (28.14 KB)