Thanks Fred. I am looking for the fabled "specialty welder" which I am sure lurks out there somewhere within 500 miles. No return calls yet but will keep trying. The engine has been steamed out but will check with the engine shop to see if they can check inside that freeze plug.

I have the 356 engine torn down for total rebuild. The shop had bored the cylinders 030 over, installed valve liners and in the process of grinding the valve seats found a hairline fracture stretching from #8 valve seat to cylinder wall adjacent. What are the options? (if any). I don't mind traveling to qualified shop if it is only a few states away from SC. Picture below shows the crack from about "11 o clock" on the valve seat to "3 o clock on the cylinder perimeter. Somehow (in my limited understanding)I can't picture this as freeze damage. Wonder if it is a casting flaw from the original manufacture. Maybe the water jacket does pass thru this area but seems awfully tight for a passage.

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Thanks for the quick response. I did check out the thread and does seem to make sense. The 356 does have 8 of the counterweights so not sure how much additional $$ that will add to the job. Also, have sourced the bolts to replace which weren't too expensive. Still a bit daunting of a task but unfortunately necessary. question remains....what are the "keepers" for the bolts that are shown as pairs for each of the three fastenings as in picture below. There will be 48 of them to remove/drill/grind out

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Have my 356, 9 main bearing 1947 engine taken out of the 2126, torn down, steamed and ready to start the rebuild. The shop is a well equipped machine shop that rebuilds approximately 200 engines per year. That said, they work primarily on small and big block v-8's and the occasional 6 cylinder and diesel blocks. The question we all have is, 'how do the counterweights on the crank come apart and more importantly, go back together. Seems there must be a shop that does this work regularly and most of the mystery has been figured out. Obviously there are three fastenings with steel plug covers holding the counterweights in place. The plugs appear to be secured with either tack welds, rivets or brads. Would be happy enough to send the crank out to get turned and put back together ready for the oversize bearings to be installed. Apparently there is a .003 discrepancy in the journals with the shape being a bit egged or oval from top to bottom. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Car has been in the family since 1956 and has about 107K miles on engine.

Possible confusion in that the engine is in a 47 (not 48)Packard 2126. I posted to offer that numbers do get misstamped occasionally. The engine guy at the shop the car 'was' in tracked down on internet site the serial number stamped on the block to indicate. He was adamant that the engine was not the 356 9 main bearing engine. My call to your department almost two years ago was helpful in confirming the 356 9 main designation by giving the length of block/head. The mechanic and I measured it and determined the engine was,in fact, the 9 main 356. All parts ever ordered (since 1957 when it came into our family) for the car were for the 356 so I was sure it was 9m 356. The serial number cast did match the smaller engine series numbers.
You guys are great up there in Booneton but would not expect anyone to recall every phone call that comes in especially one and half to two years ago. You did help resolve the problem/question. For everyone's clarification, I will get the number off the block. it is presently off to a machine/engine shop for rebuild and waiting for them to give me the specs needed on ordering pistons/rings/bearings etc.

I would like to think that the serial number stamped in the block would be a good indicator but that was not the case with my 47 super clipper 356. The car has been in the family since 1957 and rebuilt at least once by my dad. He always referred to it as a 9 main engine, 356. The restoration shop was ordering parts for it and took the serial number down as reference. Seems (to them atleast) that it was a smaller engine, 5 main bearing 327. I called Kantor and they said the two blocks were different in length (makes sense) and that the 356 was about 3/4" longer. We measured the block and found it was the longer 356 but the serial number still indicated smaller engine. Hmmmm....Engine is now out for rebuild at different shop but you might call Kantor for the length comparison of the series.

Not quite that simple. Corrosion in steel is complicated by the expansion of the two metals. Iron oxide, takes more room than just iron. The sharp rap with the hammer/screw driver jars the corrosion (compresses the iron oxide in the threads). Several sharp raps may be all that is necessary. if it still doesn't break free, then penetrating fluid will at least have an easier path to work against the corrosion. Heat works the same way, metals expand and then contract again when cooled. The "rust" gets compressed in the process. Any or some combination of the three will get the job done without damage to hardware. (A co2 bottle fire extinguisher will do the same thing in reverse. Everything shrinks when super cooled....just messier to clean up. Co2 will do a quick chill on your beer though.....)

Removed all hinge screws recently on my 2126. No issues at all however, before "screwin" up the Phillips head screws, heat and penetrating fluid should be used on any that don't just break free readily. The heat expands the fastening and the nut both which tend to add some additional space (once cooled) for penetrating fluid to work it's magic. if you don't have an impact screw driver, a few sharp raps on a regular screw driver with a hammer will help loosen any corrosion. (have used this method for forty years breaking stainless steel free once corroded in aluminum from salt exposure)

I was told the same by the rubber supplier. There is very little rubber visible from the outside of the 21st series with mostly stainless steel trim. That would indicate that the mass of the trim, the part that is holding the glass, is on the inside of the car, not the outside. I doubt there is more than 3/16-1/4" rubber reveal looking at the window from outside. Looking at the 41 photos, looks to be the same size stainless trim with very little exposed rubber.

Though I am not that familiar with the 41 model, there are a number of similarities between that and my 47 21st series. It may be the case that the stainless trim is clamped over the pinch weld and becomes the new "pinch weld" to which the rubber clips over. Cut the old rubber away, remove the center clip (rear) or center rail (front). I think you can remove it by working it inwards into the opening after the glass and rubber are cut away.
I struggled trying to figure how it was installed. Finally it made sense.
The sd card above simulates where the pinch weld fits. This looking as from the inside of car .

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