There's a long string last year on this. Look back in this forum. No one had a full proof method but does require a stout puller. I think people generally over tightened these thinking the taper was holding the wheel, but the taper only aligns the wheel the key holds the wheel from turning. Good luck.

Always best to scrap off excess before trying to clean, you'll use less cleaner. I keep "big" cardboard sheets in the garage and use as catch mats. You can pick it up and use like a funnel to the trash. Just throw out when they dirty.
If you mixed with water, you will indeed suspend the oil with any detergent. That's a detergent's job. You can "fill up" the detergent and it won't hold any more. It's hard to tell before it's too late. The oil likes the brush more (oleophilic) than the water so it can "pull" the oil out of the detergent water. They actually use that to regenerate some systems.
For home water based grease cleaning I also like "DAWN" dish detergent. You can use it straight and it will take oil stains off concrete. Wear rubber gloves, it deoils the skin too.
Purple or Super Clean are pretty much the same. Spray the uncut cleaner on first, work it, then rinse it. Repeat, if needed. They supply with a refill spray bottle.
The 2 butoxy compounds are typically conjugated ethers and are good solvents/water soluble with not much vapor pressure. There's a whole class of these compounds. They're fairly easy/cheap to make.
They sell commercial washer cleaners in bulk.
Some shops use hexane under trade names for degrease/brake cleaner but it's highly flammable and don't recommend except in the spray cans. Kerosene will work for heavy aged grease deposits. Paint with a stiff brush and rag off. Wear respirator and adequate ventilation - best outside. Depose of the rags properly. Follow up with a water based cleaner.
The halogen cleaners are the best, most expensive, and worst to handle and dispose. That's what they use in large vapor degreasers/tanks. They don't leave residues.

23rd has some on each side but mostly round rubber buttons all around the hood, which don't show in these earlier cars which are quite expensive to procure..., couple bucks apiece and there's dozens. I'm probably going to use some sort of rubber compression seal instead. Also seem to recall there's a detent on the hood underside where they go. Shows in that one picture with the hood open from underside.
Something to do with the clam shell opening hood. No fulcrum like a regular one way hood. Probably acts as a bearing and prevents corner catching and buckling of the sheet metal.
Confusion is merely a state of mind, you'll recover. We get deeply absorbed in these single problems and it over whelms us temporarily. Another medical use for beer.

These older cars have no; automatic adjusters, proportioning valves, or dual systems, so one wheel can easily lock up if the braking is not even.
If it's a squeal, it's probably not suspension, that's more squeeky. So could be something inside the wheel causing the pad to grab or too tightly adjusted. I'd definitely pull that wheel first, easiest place to check.

Had a similar problem when I first got my Cad. Owner just had the brakes readjusted. No noise but one front wheel locking and car diving, and it turned out the grease seal had been leaking for some time and the pads were badly contaminated with caked on dirt/grease. It had the old fiber seals and someone tried to reuse it during past service. They warped seal removing it - saved $30.

My Packard seals in the back were loose and grease got in but mostly out because they have a catch shield and didn't get to the pads. Not sure whether the later models have this feature or not. It's tidy - thinking of everything...

After further study, I'm convinced the best/simplest way to mount this is to attach at the base, a simple sheet metal job. Drill a round hole for the fascia to put the knob through but hold down/support at the back where the flange is. Won't ever turn.

I have to mount the switch somewhere under the dash so it doesn't show and can be seen and accessed. I know you(HH) made some fancy under bonnet contraption for yours so you could use the original parts.
I will not punch a hole in the original dash sheet metal.
I'll probably dremel it out close to square and put a big rubber washer on the inside. I might be able to make a flat stop (L) for the housing so it can't rotate behind the scenes and go with it.
I looked around for mounting plates with DD slots and came up empty, was just hoping someone had a lead or clever idea - not saying yours isn't but I'm not a JBweld kind of guy...(nor duct tape) I found they duct taped some floor holes on my new ride and I had to do some patching I wasn't planning on. Please use it on ducts - only!
I'm guessing a control panel shop would have the punch but I'm not familiar with any here. I'm retired and my panel builder contacts are long gone or far away. Alot of this manual component stuff went away with all the digital displays and soft switches, etc. I don't now why this wasn't solved by the supplier. The standard DD slot is much bigger and only used for cam-locks thse days.

I'm doing a wiper conversion and I got the intermittent switch with it from Newport. They don't ship any mounting bracket and the rotary switch is a 7/16 double D slot mount which isn't real common. I have to make a bracket to mount. I looked at the punch tool to cut that slot and it's >$300. What has anybody else done to get around?
I called Newport and he said to just tighten it on with the nut, but I'm not liking that solution those panel nuts can loosen and switch won't twist. There's no holes or other places on the switch to tap into.

Pays to shop around. That same well sells for $145 on the hot rod sheet metal website.
If it said Packard or Cadillac god only knows what they charge. Why these restoration are more costly than they need to be if you not a wholesale buyer...and why they don't bring the money they deserve.

The mechanical is completely disconnected. The outlet hose is shown open. You only need one or the other. But get the right size for the carb, if electric, otherwise you need a return line.
Best to install all new fuel lines, because sometimes they put an electric on back because the line is in bad shape and doesn't flow enough with the mechanical. Steel tubing is cheap. A good mechanical pump with a good line should work just fine.
Regular rubber fuel hose is only good for about 5 years, unless it's the modern lined silicone rubber type which this is not. There's lots of hose on this setup. Only need a short section for flex/vibration of the motor compared to the frame where the line runs.

Perception IS reality.