Often, if your clutch is worn (worn out springs in the pressure plate, particularly), or if the clutch linkage is adjusted properly (such that the clutch isn't disengaging), the transmission will spin slightly when the engine is at idle. How long has it been since you've adjusted the clutch linkage?

Guys- thanks for all the info. Right now, the plan is to get the car now, and then when I move pack to the US next spring, pick it up and just get it driving reliably and safely.

Don't worry, if I get it, I'll register it!

So, I've found some fabric for the roof, but I'm curious if anyone has ever restored this bit of a 115 or 120? I'm a pretty competent mechanic and metal fab guy, but I've never done anything like this. If I understand correctly, I'd have to build a frame out of wood, chicken wire for the antenna, cotton insulation (or a modern equivalent, and then upholster it with the rubberized canvas. Once all that is done, how does it install in the car? (remember I've only seen pictures of the car I'm looking at buying).

Getting pretty excited about the car. It's a 1937 115 Touring Sedan- big trunk, 4 doors, and the 3rd window on each side behind the passenger door. Paint looks pretty decent for the age of the car and the interior looks amazing, especially as I think it's all original.

It runs and drives, the gentleman is asking 4,000. What is the general opinion out there of the value of a car like this.

Also, I know it's not really about roof repair, but what are the taillights supposed to look like on this car? I've seen pictures of the 120s with oval tail lights on the fenders that have a raised piece in the body to match the styling on the rest of the car, raised piece in the center of the headlight bucket too. This car has neither. Is it because it's a 115 vice a 120? Thanks all!

Just my two cents worth, but modern semis don't have synchros either, because they don't hold up to the torque. Double clutching works well, or you can learn to shift like a truck driver- for downshifting into first, as rpms drop off, you'll be able to take the transmission out of second without the clutch (just put gentle pressure on the stick so you can feel the gears, and at a certain RPM you'll feel the tension drop off and it will come out smoothly). Then slowly increase rpms and gently push into first- when you get the engine and transmission rotating at the same RPM you'll feel the resistance drop and be able to slide the transmission into gear with no problems. I've shifted a 1929 Model A this way many times with no issues. I also used to deliver firewood on a 1965 Dodge 2 ton truck with badly worn synchros, and it was actually easier to shift this way than with clutch (single or double-clutching it).

Let me know how it goes!

No, it's in the US. I'm in the military, and I'll be headed back to the US in 6-8 months.

To be a little more specific on the car it's a 4 door- I'm not sure how to tell if it's a sedan or touring model. Blue and gray with what appears to be factory paint and the orignal interior, including front and rear bench seats and the door panels!

Some bondo in the front fenders, but pretty straight other than that.

So, I've found a 1937 Packard 115 that runs and drives that I'm thinking about purchasing. It appears to be all original and in great shape for a 73 year old car. That being said, the roof panel is missing. How much work and cost is involved in replacing this? I think the bows for the roof are in the backseat, but I've only seen pictures of the car so I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Ken