Tom wrote:
"Well even thou my car in not a V-8 you all can swing by my place with some paint brushes and help me paint old Bessie. I will supply the "

You should never paint a car with a brush-never!


Use a roller, it's faster

John--let me first apologize to you for not getting back to you re: the copy of the letter you sent to Stu. I received it, mulled it over and life got busy (My wife and I have a 6 year old and a 3 year old and we both have careers) I put the letter in my "to-do" pile with good intentions and lots of other tings came up.
I have been social with Stuart (and Stella) for about 20 years, we really only talk at Perrysburg and Hershey. Stuart has been the V-8 roster keeper, we both own the same car, and Stella and I share a love for Laurel and Hardy movies. I don't go to PAC conventions, and am not enmeshed in the fabric of PAC politics. I offered to write an article for the Cormorant about the Conner assembly plant based on a rather exciting find I made of some never-before published photographs and records I discovered through my work. Stuart is no different than any other club publication editor, he needs content (most often quality content in the case of the Cormorant, silly 1965 V-12 hoaxes notwithstanding) I could provide the goods, and I did--on a volunteer basis, as is always the case.
If you recall we talked about your sending me all of your thoughts and clarifications on your dear friend Brad Berry (a man I never had the pleasure of meeting) In any order that they came to you, and I would take these and write into a piece that would either be an article or a long letter to the editor that would explain "the Brad Berry that I knew?. The goal being to give depth and understanding to a person you knew far better than Stu. As I said on the AACA forums, ranting at Stuart isn't going to produce a piece he's going to want to see in print in the club's publication, it's not called the
"Corm-O-RANT". A gentle, passionate explanation of the facets of a man you knew well should, and I will urge Stu to run it in the interest of peace and understanding, not that I have any particular state of favor other than having just contributed an article. Send me those thoughts, I pledge to you I won't let it get lost in paper stack 13 in my home office and in one week's time I'll fashion it into an article, and campaign it with the editor. You can PM me here, or send it directly to my home email, 56packman(at)twmi(dot)rr(dot)com (I express it this way to discourage spammers, you know how it should really look). Again, I apologize for not getting back to you on your initial letter, but I'll do what I can to help you clear the air about Brad. If you put your thoughts into a document file it's a good idea to copy and paste them into email text in case there are software incompatibilities (as is often the case) I have made a habit of doing this in my big writing projects (I write for another hobby publication, non-automotive in nature) and that saves a lot of time.

JL

fellow V-8 folks, check out the 1955,1956 and show car catagories, I downloaded a bunch of pictures from my 8 x 10 collection, mostly V-8 cars. I also sent a 41 Cliper photo shoot shot and a 1933 interior shot

JL

I was at the 2006 PAC convention in Detroit, and helped in a small way to help bring it off. The observation of the 50th anniversary of the demise of Packard as a stand-alone Detroit automaker was a big focus of the event, there was a special circle of cars at the Wednesday event at the proving grounds where one of every 1956 model was displayed. The attendance was very good and the number of cars registered was terrific, and there were a large number of 1956 models present. Yes, we did have an emphasis on the proving grounds project, where it has been a cut-bait-or-fish year, several kind donations were made by PAC Packard owners as a result of the convention that have helped that project immensely at this crucial time. The meet did not focus solely on the PPG.
I led a two bus tour of 121 people to several important historical sites of Detroit automotive history, including the Packard plant and the site of the Conner V-8 assembly plant (we actually parked the busses on the site of the plant), so in that way we celebrated the 1956 models, 1955 too!
I did not hear as much grumbling like the comments Mr. Persall made in the Cormorant, and in general have not heard much of that from (most) PAC members. There is another club, one that sells red baseball caps, consisting of self-made men who have Roman numerals following their name and who run businesses started by previous generations of their family (not all, but many) having a vocal contingent who HATE anything postwar, really starting with the introduction of the 120 and 110 models, and who truly wish Packard died with ACD, Pierce Arrow, Peerless, Marmon and the other premium brands that did not survive the 30's. When that talk starts it's time to turn the other cheek.
I just wrote and submitted an article that will appear in the next issue of the Cormorant about the history of the Conner Ave. assembly plant, Briggs manufacturing and Chrysler's acquisition of Briggs, with many never-before seen photos of the Conner plant--Mr.Persall will have to suffer through that!

The Perrysburg weekend dates have been moved to the third weekend in May (18-20th). We could have a Great Lakes region V-8 hootenanny there!

sounds like the hydro-electric pump (that powers the convertible top)should be there by your description. Look around in all of your parts boxes for something that looks like a starter motor (or generator) housing with a domed cap mounted on one end, held on by a bail-clip. It will also have anti-vibration rubber stud-mounts. I'm reasonably sure this is what goes there, again, I'm a V-8 idiot savant, but have spent time around the 51-54 models.

Jeffery--I work in an automobile museum, and the one axiom we have about labels here is that "those who should read the labels won't(the general public), those that do are experts in one make,model and year, and they want to find all of your mistakes". No museum official wants to misrepresent objects on display. The best method is to aviod "catch-all" books like the "standard catalogue of American cars 19XX-19XX" (good books, but no book containing that much data can be 100% correct) and instead get all of your facts and figures from period sales brochures from that manufacturer for that make, model and year. Sales brochures are printed later than salesman's data books and tend to reflect last minute production changes. It also helps to have more than one person double check the text.

OK--sorry I'm a little late on this, you may have already found your problem and fixed it, but here goes anyway.
Lets start out by sorting out some terminology: when you say "short" do you mean "dead short to ground"--where 12V current is literally touching ground causing the 30amp (push button system)circuit breaker on the fender well to click on and off repeatedly, or does the system just not function, stuck in one gear?
When you say "hot" do you mean thermally hot, as in "hot to the touch" (the wire is actually getting hot) or are you using the term "hot" to indicate the presence of 12V current? (A common shop slang term, I use it a lot myself).
When you say that you have conductivity between all of the wires indicated on your post do you mean that with an ohmmeter you get 0 ohms between brown (brown is connected to the reverse gear finger) and the other indicated colors?
I'm going to assume that the unit is not shifting, no one speaks of their pushbutton system until it stops working!
The unit seems from you description to be stuck in neutral (not the worst gear to be stuck in, believe me). You have depressed the "reverse" key on the control panel (shift buttons on the steering column) this has sent 12V current to the reverse finger on the segment switch inside the actuator. The shorting bar of the contact segment is positioned such that the 12V current being applied to the reverse finger is also feeding back power to the white(high),blue(drive), and purple(low)fingers/wires. The switch contacts for all wires/gear functions are "open" (not connected to anything at the moment) at the control panel, by design, so that explains the conductivity you are seeing. One wire you did not mention is the pink wire, and this is where the trouble may be. The two outermost fingers on the segment switch are the leads that go to the motor control relay on the inner fender wall. The pink wire pulls in the relay for one direction of rotation, the orange/black wire the opposite direction. If you have power at the above listed wires and NOT pink, you could have a bent finger for the pink wire (the finger at the left side of the contact segment) OR: it could be fine and the coil for that side of the relay could be bad. Can you push "park" and get any action or is it just dead?
The worst case scenario on these is that one of the two outer fingers (pink on the left, orange/bk on the right) is bent. When this happens you ain't going nowhere. Power can't get from the key on the console to the relay coil to cause rotation.
If you need to see the fingers down on the actuator, disregard the "actuator removal" instructions in the shop manual. Do this:
you need:
A floor jack
Two good hefty jack stands
Normal mechanics tools, sockets, wrenches
A small scissor jack out of a little cheap car
Many varieties of right-angle screwdrivers


*raise the front end (or side if you prefer), put the car on the jack stands

* put the floor jack under the pan of the trans, protect with a scrap of plywood

*remove the rear trans support crossmember, supporting the trans as above

*insert the 'lil scissor jack between the frame and the tail stock of the trans on the pushbutton actuator side (driver's side) and push the trans (diagonally) away from the frame

You can't push the trans too far, there are "stops" sort of built in. This will give you enough room to get the cover off of the segment switch portion of the actuator and see what's up (this is where the trouble is most of the time)

DO NOT REMOVE THE MOTOR FROM THE ACTUATOR UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. DON'T DO IT, DON'T TRY--98% OF THE TIME THE MOTOR IS FINE, IT'S RARELY WHERE THE TROUBLE IS.

When I service a P-B unit this way I replace the slotted screws on the segment switch bridge and the cover with Allen head cap screws. G__ forbid I have to go back in (I usually don't) The allens give you six positions to grab as opposed to two with the fillister head screw.
You may have a situation where the end of the reverse finger is touching the ground of the inner cover (inside the actuator) I have seen this, I have seen contact fingers glow red like a stove burner! this will distemper the contact finger and make it worthless. Follow the above procedure and get a look at what's going on inside the actuator.

Hey, how can I officially join the club?