I'd get that rear wheel turning before working on the carb or plugs or anything. If you can't jack it up where it is beacuse of the mud, drag it to a place where you can jack it up and free the brake drum to spin.
Trying to break it free with engine power might do more damage than dragging it a few feet to higher ground.

On the other hand if your engine power is really so low, it could be you're just not making enough torque to move the car. I would still bet a brake drum is frozen.


Hope you get her going.

Ahh, got everything back together on sunday, and started the car for the first time this season. AND, no leaks!
Thanks to all your advice, I used ceramic paste on two of the water pump bolts that go into the block and don't end in the water jacket (Upper right and lower left) Thread sealant on the other two which do end into the water jacket. New bolts all around. I was able to run a few gallons of water in through the head and out the block before re-assembling, so I cleaned out some of the gunk. Last weekend I cleaned out about 1/2 inch of crud from the back of the coolant distribution tube, bad, but not terrible. I may take off the lower radiator hose and back flush when I can get to a garden hose. (Next month I getting a parking spot in the garage under my building, so working on the car will be easier)
New hoses, new fan belt too... Now everything else looks old Well, all in due time.
Looking forward to spring!

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We were talking about the bolts that attach the pump to the block. I am pretty certain that the ends of these holes in the block are not open to the water jacket. I'll check real close next time I am at the car.
Perhaps it is so on the older cars? dunno.

Oops, doppelpost (double post) (Was on my computer at work which has trouble with the cookies-hence the double post)

I picked up some of the keramik-paste from Liquimoly and will use that. (Over the counter also) You guys are a good influence on me and my packard! Thanks again for the help.

I also bought a sheet of gasket material and am going to have to cut my own thermostat gasket. Anybody willing to scan in and post as a pdf? It would be great to use that as a template. I can also use the thermostat housing as a template...

Scanned gasket templates might be a nice resource to have for us 'carriers of the packard flag in foreign lands'

In general autoparts stores here in Munich are not as good or as plenty as in any of the places I've lived in the US.

Aufwiederlesen.
Tobs

Gerd!! Was ist Anti-sieze hier in Deutschland? Kupferpaste? (copper paste?)
Got my bolts at Schrauben-preisinger. Great shop, now I have a source for fasteners here. Awesome.

Gerd!! Was ist Anti-sieze hier in Deutschland? Kupferpaste? (copper paste?)
Got my bolts at Schrauben-preisinger. Great shop, now I have a source for fasteners here. Awesome.

Oh yeah! Tried my luck with the vice grips this evening, and that bolt came out pretty easily!!!!
Cleaned things up a little, and hope to pick up the radiator tomorrow or the next day. Should be on the road this weekend!

Since I don't have new freeze plugs, I'm thinking about running the car for a day or so with only distilled water, then draining the system in the hope some of the rust/gunk will leave. Then I'll refill with a mixture of antifreeze and water. Might get freeze plugs at a later date and try and clean out the block more thouroughly then....Opinions?

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Thanks for all the tips and advice everybody. To be patient is an important one.
Ich habe auch schrauben-preisinger im internet gesehen! Danke Gerd. The nut and bolt shop is about 5 blocks from the Hofbrauhaus and a few other good breweries...will be hard to stay on course to get the bolts!!!

Got some good penetrating oil, a new wire brush, and a 1 Kilo hammer. cleaned the rust away, gave the bolt a few hits and soaked it in oil. Will repeat for a few days before trying to turn it out.
Cross your fingers, Or 'press your thumbs' if your german!
Tobs

Hi Guys,
Radiator came out fine on saturday, brought it to the radiator shop to get cleaned, pressure tested and painted...but my luck with the water pump wasn't so good. As you can see in the picture, I broke one of the bolts going into the block.
I forgot to give all the bolts a good strike with a hammer before trying to back them out. (I'm getting rusty like my car)
Over the next week I'll do some wire brushing, penetrating oil, and hope I can get this out with a vice grip. If not then it's on to stronger measures. (Good reason to get some ez-outs or tap set)

Question 1: Should I use gasket sealer on the new gasket between block and water pump, or is that not needed?

Question 2: 1 bolt attaching the pump to block was 2 inches long, 2 were 1 and 5/8" long, and the third I broke. Anybody know if they should all be the same 1 and 5/8ths?

Now, to find somebody that supplies SAE bolts here in Munich.


PS, I took out the water distribution tube w/o removing my grill! The back of it was full of gunk, as expected.

Tobs

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Thanks guys. Since the waterpump is high on my list of repairs to get ready for this spring, the pump and ground strap will get done at the same time...
I also found a picture in the Air Conditioning section of the shop manual that showed the ground strap going to the waterpump!