I checked the center pin on all four wheels as part of the adjustment following reassembly, ensuring the spacing between lining and drum is as even as possible. The drums have an inspection port for a feeler gauge.

There are no springs around the drum and no obvious provision for them. I thought those were intended to aid cooling, not for noise. I would think a spring would amplify noise, if anything.

I cleaned the linings on that wheel. There was already quite a bit of dust buildup due to the chattering shoes and they had turned from tan color to charcoal color. After cleaning them which restored the tan color the wear didn't look nearly as uneven as before they were cleaned. I haven't taken the car for a drive yet to see if it makes any difference.

I think the lining material is already at least partially chamfered at the ends but I'd have to look at them again to be sure. It may be only one shoe is or just the leading or trailing edges.

Scott

If the engine has the original style cast iron valve guides, friction increases in the absence of the tetraethyl lead the engine was designed to run. The lead deposited in the pores of the cast iron and provided some lubricity.

On unleaded the likelihood of valves sticking increases and guide wear is accelerated. A preventive is to put a little hydraulic fluid in the gasoline. Automatic transmission fluid will work fine. If a lot is added it can produce white smoke but a little will do (<1/2 pint in a tankful) and there will be no visible smoke and no objectionable odor to speak of. (It actually doesn't burn very well in a low compression engine.)

Many products sold as "top end lube" gasoline additives are mostly hydraulic fluid.

I recently replaced the brakes on my '48 Custom with the Kanter kit -- shoes, cylinders, springs, master, hoses. The old shoes were not anywhere close to worn out but everything was old and one of the cylinders tended to stick so I opted to just replace everything.

I cleaned the backing plates and put a very thin film of ceramic high temp brake grease just on the contact pads for the shoes. The drums are in fine condition with smooth surface.

Everything went well for the first couple of short drives, but then the left front wheel began squealing loudly whenever the brakes are applied more than very lightly. I pulled the wheel off again and all looks fine except that the shoes do not appear to be contacting evenly. The ends of the secondary shoe, especially the upper, show some wear with none in the middle. The shoes are clean.

The other three wheels aren't making noise. Ideas?

The play is at top and bottom. I can see the spindle movement so it's not wheel bearings.

I guess I'll have to find a reamer tool. That's one item I don't yet have.

My 1948 Custom has some kingpin play in the left front wheel. There doesn't appear to be abnormal tire wear, but the play can be felt and seen with the wheel pressured side to side top and bottom while off the ground. I assume the pins/bushings need replacement. Any tips? What special tools are required?

Quote:

The plugs are 10mm non-resistor and the spark plug wires are supposed to be reproduction original so I assume they are non-resistor, but I'd have to see if I can positively ID them. It all seems to be working fine.

Earlier this year I installed the Pertronix electronic ignition in my '48 Custom and it's working just fine so far. With it I also installed the accompanying coil they sell. In black it looks stock. There are no R9 overdrive issues that I am aware of. All seems well. The wiring differences are noted earlier. It does all look stock except for the wire exiting the distributor (instead of the terminal).

Anyone have any tips on replacing the wind contacts on the clock from a 22nd series? Mine are burnt to a crisp. Nothing left to file.

This is a basic question but I thought I'd ask before I messed them up.

I ordered some under hood decals from Max Merritt, e.g., HD air filter, breather, & oil filter, for my 23rd series. How are they applied? Do they need to be soaked in water to remove them from the paper backing?

Also, any guidance on precise positioning of these three decals?

Any tips for removing the heater core on a '48? I'm getting windshield moisture and suspect a leak.
Is it easier to remove the entire box first or to remove all the screws for the cover? If the latter, does the blower have to be removed first?