For low volume work, you can get the shrinker/stretcher set from Harbor Freight, as well as pneumatic plenishing hammer and English Wheel for considerably less. A friend of mine just bought the English Wheel and shrinker/stretcher set, and they both seem to be pretty good quality.
John
He also told me I could borrow both whenever I need them........<big big grin>

Great idea Kev! That one is going in the "to do" list.....
The harness that I'm looking at has a fusible link it it, but I think it could be converted pretty easily to a "fused" configuration. Did you use a standard 55 Amp GM alternator?

Did you get the one with the 50A main or a fusible link? I'm looking at the EZ2Wire unit, since just about all of the ones I've looked at all use the same gauge GXL crosslinked wire. I, too, want to add power windows, and maybe power locks, AC, and upgrade to 12V, neg ground, with an alternator. Since my car was "gutted" when I bought it, I have pretty much a clean slate to work with. I did luck out and find an old friend who does sheet metal work and has a home shop with a 50" brake, 40 ton press, and 54" shear, and he helped me make a couple of pieces that were all but rusted away. I need to get out and take some photos and start posting updates here. Of course, I also need to clean up the garage so I can at least try to get the car inside!! 8>)
John

This is for anyone who has installed a new harness in their Packard. I need to install a new harness and was wondering if others have gone with the 12 circuit or 20+ circuit harnesses that are available.
As I've stated in the past, I'm building a driver and want/need to add some "creature comforts" to the car to appease the family, as well as to increase the safety factor. I intend on using harnesses made with only GXL or better wire, and am wondering if it's worthwhile to split up some of the original circuits. IIRC, my 55 Clipper has 8 circuits, so bringing in a 20+ circuit harness seems a bit like overkill.
Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John

Robert,
Thanks for the info. I printed out your photo of the open box with the core installed, and you can just see the top of that piece, so I went looking though the parts and finally found the "collar/baffle". Believe it or not, the PO had all of the screws attached to it.
I have one other question for you though. Regarding the "flange" that attaches to the duct pipe and heater core box, and is actually the part that you bolt to the firewall; is there any insulation, or gasket, where it connects to the collar/baffle? Just looking at the way it will go together, it appears that there will be about a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the flange and the heater box.
I think the PO had the core checked and repaired, but I'm going to take it to a radiator shop and have it leak checked anyway before I assemble everything, so I have a little time to play around with making sure it's done right.

Thanks again for the "top notch" info, and if I hadn't said it before, you did a great job!
John

Robert,
How was/is the heater core secured to the heater box? Mine was in pieces when I got my car and I want to make sure it goes back together properly? Also, was there any other insulation other than what you put on the pipes?
Thanks,
John

Just a note to again thank everyone for the suggestions. I put the entire assembly in carb cleaner and took it out this weekend. It had separated on it's own after soaking. I washed and dried everything and it almost looks like new. There was nothing that even resembled a filter element inside the bowl, so am I missing something or is it just supposed to be an empty bowl?
I know that HH56 shows a paper filter element and cork gaskets, but this one had a one piece rubber gasket and nothing else.
Thanks,
John

Ba Da Bing <Rim Shot>

Kev,
Which harness did you buy? I'm looking at the EZ harness and it runs about $185 plus shipping. It's all GXL crosslinked wire and each wire is labeled every 5 inches.

Drake,
If you do decide to go with a universal harness, make sure that it's made with the new crosslinked wire. It stands up better to engine compartment heat and vibration. As far as changing over from 6 to 12 volts, that call is yours depending on what you want to do with the car. I'm building a driver and because I live in the deep South (New Orleans), I definately want AC.
HTH,
John

Thanks for all of the replies. I think I will try the soaking thing first. I have a carb cleaner can with basket, so that would make it easier.
Just a note on the oven process: I do this on a regular basis with other items and it is safe if you do it correctly. I have an electric oven and I bring it up to temp, shut it off, then put whatever I'm working on inside for about 30 minutes. That's usually sufficient to achieve the expansion I'm looking for, and it doesn't damage the oven (keeps the wife happy).