I had previously posted a question on the bulbs for these lights and now have them all cleaned up, rewired and ready to install. In placing them on the fender of my car I am unsure of the 'correct' position. I've sifted through a ton of pictures online, and first of all, do they sit ON the chord line crease of the fender, or just beside it? And if beside, WHICH side? And does anyone know of a measurement or spec, say the distance from the bottom front lip of the fender to the 1st hole? Or am I being too fussy? Caribbean Dude posted a link on a 1940 Darrin today that has an excellent shot of the headlight/parking light alignment. Should a guy just eyeball it and start drilling holes?? I own a boat and belabor over every hole I drill in it, and kind of treat the Packard the same way - I only get one shot at making it right!!
Thanks for any input or data anyone can come up with.
https://www.rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/MO12/Monterey/lots/r146-1940-packard-super-eight-one-eighty-darrin-convertible-sedan-by-howard-dutch-darrin/280733

The headlight shot is 6 clicks in....

I've read each entry in this thread as it developed and must say, there are many interesting observations, statements and claims made by a lot of different posters.

I think we all oft-forget how the written word can be so much more 'indelible' than with oral exchanges and it is so easy to descend into the classic 'war of words' with these emails.

I also think there is a lot of misinformation and even outright deception out there. When I went to buy my car (1939) it was advertised as a 120 and being the first-ever classic vehicle I have owned, I did a lot of checking and, in part, by asking the questions on this site, I was able to prove to the seller that it was not a 120, just a Six and the eventual sell-price reflected the proper reclassification. I truly don't know if it was an 'honest' mistake or not as the guy didn't really seem to 'know', one way or the other, but irrespective, it was certainly worth exercising due diligence and doing the homework to find out.

I certainly take to heart and agree with Joe Santana's comments about not being 'mean-spirited' in questioning and qualifying this info but can also see Caribbean Dude's point about it being 'fair and open game' to ask the questions.

Ill-will is a nasty thing on a forum like this and I know only too well how easy it is to get one's back up if we feel we are being impugned or assailed, but a pause and a collective 'deep breath' might not be a bad thing here. Yes/no?
Chris Goodfellow

Thanks Howard and Owen for the replies. Owen, I HAVE a manual for my 1939 1700. I've also downloaded the options manual for that year and although parking lights were an option in '39, they look different than the '40 parking lights, and seem quite rare. Most of the '39's I have seen in pictures that have added lights, seem to go with the later model pair - thus the question.

I am refurbishing a pair of 1940 teardrop front parking lights. After considerable effort, I got them apart without breaking the glass globes and found both bulbs needed replacing. Other than 'Made in USA' I can find no numbers on them. They are double contact bulbs that look a lot like 1157's were we in 12 volt territory. Does anybody know a 6 volt number for these??? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Howard - that's an excellent tutorial, as usual with your incredible knowledge of these cars. Also, that is a nifty bit of engineering to add the sensor in at the T-stat housing; looks factory.

Curious on this one as to how easy it is to get the sender unit out of the head?? I have toyed with the idea of removing mine and 'tee-ing' in a 'proper gauge' to see the 'real numbers', but shudder at the possible 'can of worms' I'd be opening?? I would think it quite easy to shear the threaded stub off in the head what with all the heat the union has been exposed to. Also thinking the gauge and line must be removed first so the tube doesn't get twisted with the unthreading motion. Is there another way to install a numbers calibrated hot water gauge??

Curious on this one as to how easy it is to get the sender unit out of the head?? I have toyed with the idea of removing mine and 'tee-ing' in a 'proper gauge' to see the 'real numbers', but shudder at the possible 'can of worms' I'd be opening?? I would think it quite easy to shear the threaded stub off in the head what with all the heat the union has been exposed to. Also thinking the gauge and line must be removed first so the tube doesn't get twisted with the unthreading motion. Is there another way to install a numbers calibrated hot water gauge??

Is there one parts book out there that has the picture explosions, part numbers AND the grouping system numbers in a single publication? I see the Packard Club sells a '1935-1941' Parts Book, (I'm looking for '39) but I don't know what's inside it.
When I look in 'our' archives, each category is listed separately.
Can somebody who has this figured out give me some help?? If I buy the '35-'41 book, is that all I'll need? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Thanks 'J' from Kanters. That is a good article/thread on overheating. I'll follow the sequence and try and address all topics when I get everything apart. I will call your Packard department for a price on the aftermarket pumps. Appreciate you taking the time. Regards, Chris.

One of my first projects this spring is to remove the front end clip from my '39 Six and do a major cooling system overhaul. I have a radiator specialist lined up to recore the rad and, while I have it apart, want to do a proper flush. I will also replace the water pump. I do have a couple of questions...
1) I see these new, aftermarket waterpumps out there - are the any good?? I presume they're made in China. Or would I be better off sending my pump to somebody like the Flying Dutchman (I think that's the name) and have it rebuilt?

Also, in taking out the infamous Packard water jacket sleeve, is there anything special I need to know or do there??

And lastly, I was thinking of knocking out the frost plugs and flushing the water jackets around the cylinders. Am I opening a can of worms here? Are the replacement plugs easy to come by and is there issue or special procedure to remove/reinstall??

In addition to all new hoses and a new thermostat, are there any other areas I need to check or tend to??

Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.