On my 53 with manual brakes, the master cyl is on the frame rail just in front of the firewall. I have to reach all the way down over the fender and fresh air duct to get down there. The cap unscrews with a pretty big wrench. Be careful you don't touch both contacts on the brake light switch with your wrench when opening the mc. That brake electrical circuit is hot all the time.
Happy stopping.
Tobs

Well, since I have been asking on the forum, and around my neighborhood shops here, I've gotten a lot of options... I'll give "classicparts" a shot, and if the parts don't satisfy me then I'll chalk it up as "Lern Geld" (education money) and fab the parts locally. I think the work will be done in the fall either with parts I ship from the US, or made here.
Tobs
I also learned how to say "bondo" in german, "spachtel" in case anybody was wondering

Hmm, the rear fenders are for a 4 door, so I guess the dogleg area in front of the wheel arch would have to be modified/fabricated, but might be worth a shot.
Thanks for the tips!
Just went to an American car show outside of Munich today. Really fun to see what shows up there. I will be very surprised if I meet another Packard someplace.

Hi all,
It's time for me to start taking care of the rear wheel arches that are rusting again. I guess after 15 years or so the first restoration is starting to fade. The rear wheel arches are bubbling/rusting and I might even have to do the drivers side rocker panel/threshold outside.

Is any reproduction sheetmetal available on the market, or is this all to be self fabricated?

Car is a 1953 Clipper delux club sedan. Here's a couple of pics so you get an idea of the extent of rust. I guess it would also be possible to fab the sheetmetal since I don't have the lines like the 51 cars do.

Thanks,
Mike

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Yeah, I guess one of those pumps would be good for sucking out the old oil, and it is really the best way to get new gear oil in the trans also. I'll have to put that on my wish list.
-Mike, I also had to calculate, 7 quarts is 6.6 liters

Hi everybody, I did an oil and filter change yesterday and didn't suck all the oil out of the filter housing... I guess a turkey baster would be good to suck this 1/2 quart of oil out to get rid of all the old oil...Is this what most people do?

Not to start another debate, but as another reference point for anybody wondering, I used 15w40.
Aufwiederlesen,
Mike

OK, Guess I should stop being a cheapo. It is already "cheap" if I'm doing the work myself...

I saw Kanter also has water pump "repair kits" for 60 dollars. I figured that was all a rebuild shop would do, besides boiling and media blasting my old water pump.

I envy you guys with your garages. I keep my car in a common underground garage in the city, and when I work on it, I have to go to a "Hobby garage" where I can rent a lift and workspace by the hour. They have vices and hydraulic presses which is nice though.

Just found the site and signed up, great to see something like this for Packards!
My water pump is making a little bit of noise, and the fan wobbles a little, and the last time I had the car out, it was showing a tick hot on the temp gauge.
I'd like to either replace or rebuild my water pump.
I see there are water pump rebuild kits available. Has anybody rebuilt a pump? It would certainly save me some shipping of cores to Germany and back.
Any special tools or procedures needed for a water pump rebuild?
Thanks!
Mike