Yeah, I haven't checked on pot metal but that stuff is notorious for it's time consuming and labour intensive repair procedure to get all the pocks out (they should call it pock metal!) that I'm sure it would be commensurately more expensive. I have quite a bit to do and where possible, will try and just buy decent looking pieces off the net, rather than have mine resurfaced. Door handles are a good example - I see pretty good non-locking ones on EBay for $100 a pair and I doubt I could get mine redone for that.

Okay, I get it..... just a thought. There are some ridiculous disparities betwixt our two nations on some things, with the benefactors tipping either way.

After I stopped laughing at the various comments on this post, I just wanted to 'chuck this out there'... I am up in Canada (B.C.)and just finished checking on re-chroming the bumpers on my '39 Six. I have the optional dual cross bars on the front, and with those and the four upright brackets, the estimate comes in at $1600 CDN, or $1185 US. This electroplating shop has been there forever and has an excellent reputation. While realizing there is some extra messing around with customs and additional freight, would there be any economy in shipping stuff north-of-the-border to take advantage of a weak Canadian dollar???

I have a crack in the driver's roll-up window of my '39 Six. Oddly enough, it is from a bird flying into the car and frantically trying to exit. Hard as I find this to believe, a friend with a '46 Ford told me a bird had gotten into his car and taken out ALL the windows! I guess the glass is extraordinarily brittle in 70-80 year old cars.

I am unsure of how to remove the glass. There are two triangular shaped openings in the inner door skin, one small and one quite large - looking like the window could be tilted and manipulated out through there. Or does the guide frame have to be 'opened up', the window detached from the bottom at the crank frame and the glass lifted out the top?

I have the luxury of recent restoration; the door panels are new, and all the hardware securing the crank mechanism to the inner door panel boasts shiny new bolts, so I am hoping the disassembly isn't too arduous, but I would really appreciate the 'cook's tutorial' on the procedure.

Thanks to any and all responders.

Just as an update to my 'door project', I did get the lock out today and was surprised by a couple of things.... first, I couldn't believe how easy it came out!! I was expecting a 'real fight' and, to the contrary, I had the mechanism in my hand in minutes. Secondly, I found the lock I removed was missing the latch-return 'bobby-pin' spring altogether. I felt around in the bottom of the door cavity, but found nothing. I can see how the spring pushes on the door handle mechanism in John Ulrich's site photo, and I am optimistic that the new springs will help return the handle to the horizontal position. I was also expecting to find the lock assembly a lot more 'gunked up' than it was. I sprayed it with 'Free-All' (for those unfamiliar, Free-All is far and away the best anti-seize product around - made in the US by Federal Process) and then oiled all the moving parts and the unit seems to function very smoothly, save for the moment effort of the spring to return it positively to the horizontal 'start' position. I am up in the mountains in British Columbia Canada, and the parts are several hours drive away at my mail box in northern Washington. With storms, road closures and generally inclement weather of late, I have been unable to go and get them - thus I am stalled on my progress for now; I will report with the finishing results as soon as possible.

I sure will Joe... although you saying that gives me pause to wonder if IIIII will be able to figure out how to put them in!! LOL I may end up having to get the 'play-by-play' from John Ulrich... irrespective, I will document and post the 'procedure' and will take some pics too!

Thanks Gerd (Guscha).. I did check out the thread you referenced - it seems there are 2 springs involved and I am told the circular one almost never breaks. I have ordered 4 of the 'other' springs from John Ulrich Packard. I will remove the latch mechanisms and clean them up, re-lubricate and replace the springs. If that works, fine; if not, I will get them 'heated and twisted' as per the suggestion of the other folks who weighed in, that have addressed this issue.

On a separate note, I wanted to comment on the fly window mechanism. I did remove it and in taking it apart, found that the shaft on which the crown gear rotates, is riveted to the bottom bracket. I was able to 'clear' the rivet knurl with a cold chisel and eventually got it apart and freed the stripped gear. It does not look like the shaft- end will re-rivet back on to the bracket. My thought was to drill the end of the shaft, tap it for a small machine screw and use a washer to re-secure the shaft to the bracket on reassembly. This all seems rather much to just replace the stripped crown gear and I was wondering if I screwed up and there was another way?? Or is this what everyone does?? Just curious if I was doing it the 'hard way'??
Again, many thanks to the kind folks who always help out on these queries. Your experience is invaluable!

Thanks for the 'reads & replies' - much appreciated. I did get a hold of John Ulrich and he is sending me new springs and a new crank gear for my fly window. I did dig through some old forum threads, and saw similar issues with a '37. The solution there seemed to be heating the shafts and twisting them. It also said a thorough cleaning and re lubricating of the latch mechanisms are essential, which I will do. I will report back with findings/results. Again, thanks for taking the time to help and advise.

I have a stripped flywheel window gear on the passenger side of my '39 Six and a cracked window plus no lock key on the driver's side. (front doors) and I have a couple of questions re the disassembly of the doors. Firstly, am I correct in assuming that to remove the inner door handles, one pushes the panel in to expose the crank shaft stub, and then remove the pin(s) with a 3/16" or so punch? Secondly, my outer door handles tend to droop downward instead of returning to the horizontal position and, in as much as I have to remove the driver's door handle to get a key made for it, I was wondering if anyone can give me some guidance re procuring and replacing the return springs?? Also, is there a source for the passenger side flywheel gear or does one have to get the gear re-made?? I realize that is a few questions in a row.... thanks to any and all who have time to respond.

No worries Fred, I do trust you. I'll take the used one. Appreciate your time and advice on this. What's best way to complete the order - do you want me to just call the store on Monday?