Re: Floor pan question?
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Check post "floorpans for 1948 deluxe 8 touring sedan." some good information there. Maybe helpful?
Posted on: 2012/7/8 21:48
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Re: Found a couple Packards 50's
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Pictures taken 05 July 2012, I don't know where it got that date when I transferred them from my phone to Mac. The cars at at Dennis Tipton Auto Sales, Antiques & Classics (probably means higher prices, but don't know.) HC 6 Box 432, Doniphan MO. 63936. Phone: (573) 996 3087 Cell: (573) 996-6598.
I didn't meet the owner, I was told to go look for a white headed old man, but couldn't find him and it was too hot that day, 102 plus. If you go to BING.COM (MAPS) and go to Doniphan MO. his business is on the West side of Doniphan just South of junction of 160, 21 & 142.
Posted on: 2012/7/8 21:27
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Found a couple Packards 50's
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Found a couple Packards in Southeast Missouri if anyone is interested. I've seen these before when I'm driving to our old farm and figured I would share them with you.
Attach file: (161.47 KB) (150.86 KB) (168.54 KB) (158.79 KB) (154.90 KB) (170.78 KB) (148.64 KB) (160.83 KB)
Posted on: 2012/7/7 21:27
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Re: trouble bleeding brakes
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If you have the original bleed screws, it would be best to replace them with new bleed screws, but keep the old screws. After that you can stick a hose on to the new bleed screws and put the hose down into a jar with some brake fluid all ready in it. It is best to have two people for this job. One person steps on the brake and holds it down, while the other person opens and closes the bleed screw with every press of the pedal. After you get the feel back in the brake pedal you should be ready for a test drive. Just make sure to keep an eye on the brake fluid and use slow strokes on the pedal.
Posted on: 2012/6/24 21:52
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Re: Starter Went Bad?
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With the correct starter installed, I would think the first thing you will notice is how slow the engine turns over the first time you start it.
Wes
Posted on: 2012/6/19 21:39
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Re: Clipper Windsheild Washer Reservoir/Pump
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It's all vacuum controlled, not sure how it works. I have one in pieces and it's just tubes, no wiring.
Wes
Posted on: 2012/6/14 20:26
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Re: drum brake removal
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It never hurts to keep an open mind, as they say.
Here is something I found on www.aaca.org Re: Rear wheel removal . . . . . how?? W_Higgins Under these conditions it may never pop off depending on how tensioned you have it. As I'm sure you know, once the spokes start to deflect, it's pointless to crank down on it any more than you already have. The heat thing is fine to a limit. I mean, hey, it gets hot when you drive and brake hard. As with most things, the "if a little's good, more must be better" rule doesn't apply here. Heat it up a few hundred degrees. You're not going to screw up your hub until you start approaching a dull cherry, which is around 800 degrees. A little expansion in a taper can release a lot of pressure. The driving with the nut loose thing works and is a good suggestion. Did it on a tour last year when I didn't have a puller handy. All it takes is backing it off a couple of flats and swerving a little at low speed, or driving over some potholes, if you want to speed things along. I've got what I think is that same size puller (it's a little hard to measure from the i.d.) and it has a 3 in. center depth. At least in diameter, that size of puller is out there. __________________ Walter. Although this is talking about a wooden spoke wheel, I would think it would also work just the same.
Posted on: 2012/5/21 14:54
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Re: drum brake removal
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Before referring to anyone as a nut, I would look into all means and use what works!
If you would search the internet this is a common problem with old cars and new cars, most people seem to get by with a penetrating oil, others have found the Heat and Beat works for them and last but not least they just cut it off. At times it helps to keep an open mind, just because you have never tried it doesn't mean it doesn't work. I'm not saying to take the nut all the way off and drive from here to Tim Buck Tu. Just back the nut off a turn or maybe a half, and drive the car around the block. A rocking back and forth should apply enough side force to break it loose.
Posted on: 2012/5/21 10:13
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Re: Severe diff noise
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Since you have gone this far, if I read this correct. I would see about getting a torque wrench and check the rotation torque. When I did mine I couldn't figure out why mine would read higher at one point than another when rotating about 360 degrees, until my brother started to take it back apart and found I hadn't seated the dust seal all the way down.
Posted on: 2012/5/21 9:23
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