I'll take a picture of it and post it; there is a plate that must interface with the works as the bolt holes are a clear match. Perhaps it was a factory installed shim to line up the spare in the well?

Hi Folks -- I've been working on installing my rear fenders, splash aprons and running boards on my 31 sedan. My question relates to hardware for the sidemounts. I have the spacer blocks that are about three inches thick and obviously fit between the frame and splash guards. I have the arm with a matching bolt pattern which obviously support the tire. But I also have a rectangular steel plate, about 1/8th thick, with matching bolt holes -- where does this go? Under the splash aprons or on the splash aprons as a place for the arm to bolt to?

Gentlemen: Thanks very much for the information and guidance.

Does anyone have or know where I can find a pair of distributor advance springs for a 31 Standard 8?

Yes, a clean-out looked in order. I found PB Blaster and and toothbrush worked well to clean out the junk that the fingers couldn't reach. Be sure to clean out the drain holes leading back to the sump.

I did the start up procedure a year ago on a 31 Standard 8 after it had been sitting for 35 years. I put about two tablespoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it work a week. With the plugs out, I used a hand crank (which is something I glad I did) to rotate everything then after about 1/2 turn, everything locked up. I figured it was stuck closed valve and everything stopped when the cam lobe came in contact with the stuck valve. Not wanting to tear everything apart, I found a youtube video advising on a 50/50 mixture of diesel fuel and ATF, filling the cylinders to the brim, and letting it sit for a couple weeks. Yep, it worked, everything was free after two weeks. Be sure to drain the sump before doing this as you'll use 2 gallons of this concoction which will drain into the sump.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QqXKzS1JVU

I then drained that, filled with fresh oil and handcranked about 100 times. I disconnected the oil pressure gauge while I handcranked the engine (with the plugs out). I was able to get a flow of oil at the connection, so I obviously was able to build pressure such that oil was reaching the rotating journals. Be sure to set timing, clean up all your ignition parts, gap the plugs and points, and clean/rebuild the carb. I used a vacuum tool to draw gasoline from the tank through the fuel pump, and handcranked some more to prime the carb. After massaging the carburetor a little, it fired up.

It'd be a good idea to pull the valve cover and confirm all the valves are moving as they should before hitting it with the torque of the starter. Clean all the junk out around the valves while you're in there.

Can anyone provide guidance on where fender beading/welt is applied on a 31 Sedan? Specifically:

1. is it fitted between the panel that covers the fuel tank and body;
2. For the rear fenders, does it terminate at the top of the splashers or does it continue down to the running boards;
3. Does the beading applied anywhere along the running boards ie between running board and splashers horizontally, or between running boards and front and rear fenders.
4. For the front, does it just go between the frames shelves and fenders? Anywhere else?
5. What's the correct size 1/4 or 3/16?

Does anyone have advice on steps to take to get my 31 generator up to optimal performance? I pulled the generator out without fouling the timing chain sprocket (whew), and pulled the cutout switch off and sent it off for a rebuild as I wasn't convinced it was working. I noticed the commutator looked a tad cruddy and third brush sufficiently worn. The wires leading to the cutout are frayed and could use replacing. I found a set of brushes on Ebay which are currently on the way. I"m thinking about pulling it apart, thoroughly cleaning, replacing brushes and the frayed wires, then seeing where I'm at after the cutout comes back. What should / shouldn't I do?

Okay, just checked the fuse and it tested good. I pulled the rear cover off the generator -- is the adjusting screw attached to a small gear? The Service manual indicates that the rate of charge is 10 to 12 amps at 18 to 20 mph; but I did see your past post where you limit it to 5 amp for daytime driving, and a little more if your out at night and using other electrics.

Yes, the system is 6 volt and is positive grounded, and no I have not checked the fuse. You're referring to the fuse in the relay?