Randy, I suppose the rear end would mean putting the jacks under the axle and not under the frame.

My T/L motor is not working. I found broken wires at one of the limit switches and am in the process of fixing that. I tried putting a 12 volt jumper to each of motor terms but it would not spin. There was no sparks or anything, so I pulled the dust cover and was able to turn the armature a little in both directions with my fingers. The brushes look good and are seated squarely and making contact with the armature. everything looks clean inside and didn't see any corrosion. I checked across the motor terminals with ohm meter and got zero ohms, but it seems like I should have some resistance reading? It looks like the motor can be pulled out without pulling the compensator but I'm not sure and don't want to make things worse. I could use some guidance from here on, and it would be greatly appreciated.
I think if I can get the motor out to where I can see it on my bench I may have a better shot at fixing it. The car is in the driveway on jacks and not easy to see much under there as I'm sure all of you know from your own experiences.
Thanks.

Thanks Randy, Yes I was referring to the VW switch,but I picked up a NAPA ECHLIN SL159 switch that is supposed to be a replica of the OEM Packard switch and it works just like the VW. Sounds like you have one of the oem's or at least one of the same design. Do you know who manufactured yours.
I didn't intend to imply the service manual is incorrect, just unclear since fgure 96,p-63 shows purple going to the middle term while on page 65, fig 97 purple appears to go to a different term and lt. grn seems to be the center term.
However I do realize neither dwg is intended to be used to determine circuit logic and is actually a wire id dwg.
I only wanted to help the next guy, who like me is new to Packard cars and may find like me,that information like how a oem switch actually works may take a while.
I like your saying about "Theory Vs Practice", I find it to be true everyday.

Update: The brake lights and T/L are now working correctly. The correct wiring to the switch terminals is (looking at the termianl end, left to right) term 1, dk grn wire "brake light", term 2 (center term), Lt grn wire "T/L", term 3 purple or pink "12volt feed" The brake switch contacts (1) will activate (close)at about 80 to 85 psig, closing the circiut to term 3.
The shop manual is very unclear about how to correctly wire the switch. Thanks for your help and input. Next project, Fuel gauge problem.

I use my air compressor. I did the test with the switch not installed in the brake line. I just screw the 1/8" threaded male sw conn into the air gun I use for blowing away dirt, etc. connect a ohmmeter or conductivity light to the common and N/C contacts and then adjust the pressure until the switch activates.
I found the wells RB402 brake switch will activate the N/C T/L contacts at about 38 to 40 psig, causing them to become open. I then connected the wires to the switch, 12v (pink) to common (center term), LT Grn to right term, Dk Grn to left term. I then presured to 40 psig, thereby killing power to the T/L switch. I figured the other terminal contacts for the brake lights should activate at the same pressure, but there was no change "no power to DK. Green wire to the brake lights", so I increased the pressure incremetally "about 5lbs at a time, didn't want to blow the diaphragm" until I reached 70 or 75 lbs, still no power to the dk grn wire. I moved all 3 wires to different terminals but, I never could get term 3 (left)to change status with the common or the N/C term which makes me believe the switch is faulty. I don't know how they calculate the pressure it takes to stop the vehicle but, I'm sure the equation includes mechanical aspects such as shoe or rotor size,etc. Anyway, I'll check it when I get the new switch and let you know the results.

Thanks again HH56 and Randy B.
UPdate: It sounds like the switch circuit should work pretty much as I figured. I tried about everything I can think of, but no matter what I tried the results were the same, the common and N/C contacts (T/L)open with about 40psi but the other terminal (dk green wire)remains the same and has no power to the brake Lt. I even increased the pressure to about 70 psi but still no change. I tried all of the three wires on different terminals but that one terminal does nothing. If I wired the brake (dk.grn) to the N/C terminal, Pink to Common, Lt green to the third term, then the brake Lt's work but the T/L won't.
I went to my local napa and will have another sw tomorrow or Fri. I"ll try again and let you know results.

Thanks for the quick reply. ?, does the mech sw you used have 2 sets of contacts, 1 n/o and the other n/c. It looks like you have the 12v pink supplying power to both sets of contacts. I found Someone had wrapped the dk. green (stop light)around the 12v purple and the brake lights stayed on all of the time indicating the switch is defective or wrong type with no contact between those 2 terms on the switch. however the contacts on the switch do make and break for the LT grn. and the 12v pwr to the T/L. The switch is a replacement, Wells RB402. Apparently the OEM packard had 2 sets of contacts and the wells has only 1 (for the T/L). Ihe Packard shop manual or elect dwgs show the contacts and the parts manual doesn't mention it at all so I"m just guessing as to how the oem sw. worked. I'll try the local parts for the VW SW. you referenced.

Need some help with 56 pat stop light switch. The switch has three male blades. looking down at the terms,The center term (12v purple wire) and the right term (LT green T/L sw)are N/C contacts and become N/O when the brake is applied, this kills power to T/L as it should. But the brake light does not come on and there is no power at the left term where the DK green wire is terminated. Shouldn't the left term and center terminal have a contact that makes(closes) when the brake is applied. Otherwise I don't see how the brake light could work. according to the wiring diagrams there is no other switch anywhere in the circuit, other than the turn signal flasher.