Almost certainly the case, HH.

Oh, my....


Now I want one, despite my carb working perfectly...

Interesting--thanks. Right now, there is a line from the manifold to a rubber line, that then goes through the firewall to the wiper assembly. Wipers haven't ever worked, and there was an enormous vacuum leak under the dash due to swollen and corroded hoses. I've just disconnected the whole thing and plugged the line for now. Yet another bastardized "repair" on the car to figure out.

My fuel pump died today on my '37 115c. Rebuild kit on the way. The pump installed appears to be a correct style AC dual action pump, but the wipers are not connected to the fuel pump/vacuum pump.

Can someone chime in on what this connection looks like? I assume that the line connects to one of the threaded ports on the upper section of the assembly. A previous owner connected the vacuum line to the intake manifold. Wipers have never worked; rotted hoses under the dash were removed to cure a massive vacuum leak.

They built my '37 115 sending unit, start to finish, and it had a brass float; cork was original I understand.

That looks just like the clearance I have on my '37 115.

I have pertronix products in three of the rolling stock, one being my '67 F250, a 1972 Bobcat skidsteer, and the third my 1947 Ford 8N, which was converted to 12V.

If you don't have full voltage, the Pertronix flat out will not start the engine. For all three of the above, that's pretty much full-time battery tenders, as each of them are used sparingly.

My other 8N is 6V, stock points, and never, ever fails to start, even with a 'low' battery. Or a crank start if it's altogether dead.

My '37 110 with stock points/condenser starts on the third crank after sitting for a week or two, without fail. Spares are in the glovebox.

Those are the same as mine--mine are bolted to the bumper brackets, and still "chrome" for now.

Nicely done. I like that body color.

Not mine, I just spotted it on CL

https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/d/spokane-1952-packard-ultramatic/7476169916.html

I didn't break into the factory harness; I powered my switch from the starter if I recall.

My front turn signals are bolted to a bracket that I fabbed up from an "L" bracket from Lowe's; harness is concealed in a mesh-type loom and then fabric-type electrical tape. Front turn signals were from ebay, a replacement motorcycle turn signal pair. Added the 6V lamps, bought a 6V flasher unit. Took about 3 hours to install, and two beers. Hardest part was re-doing the rear harness as the original was crumbling where exposed. Works great. No, it's not factory, nor does it look it. But it's adequate for now. And with new wiring and new connections, they are plenty bright.

They're similar to these:https://www.ebay.com/itm/393417889619?hash=item5b99889753:g:880AAOSw-rVg25iY