The usual suspects. and David Moe Packard-Seattle Co.

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No oneupmanship here, just FYI. A Chrysler Pacifica holds 2 1940 welled front fenders, 2 rear fenders, trunk rack and supports, 4 hood pieces, radiator shell, and 2 sidemount covers, head and parking lights. Packed for trip to the Canyon Auto paint shop.

Joe

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Jdub,

The answer is I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm faithful about following the advice of others. Sometimes it works out and sometimes not. I've been lucky.

I was just going to stick a 6v fuel pump on the fuel line and call it good. But no, I had to start reading. Back in the day a neighbor, to help me keep my car running, put (I think) a 12v fuel pump on the fuel line. He had one on his 1939 Cadillac convertible sedan. When you turned on the ignition it thumped about 10 times and stopped. It wasn't switched, so it pumped as needed, that is , when the pressure dropped. It worked great for years, but on a trip down I-5 I stopped to check my oil while getting gas and it was way over Full. It was thin and smelled of gas.

The diagram had ruptured on the mechanical pump. Fortunately I happened to have a box of left over parts in the trunk which included a single-action fuel pump and the mechanic attendant replaced the double action with the single. I never associated the cause of the rupture with too high fuel pressure as a result of the electric fuel pump. And maybe it didn't in my case.

Not until I read a thread on fuel pump issues here and the article on PAC's Library Tech Tips on Electric Fuel pumps. It just advises that electric fuel pumps pump at 10 psi and Packards like 3.5-5 psi, so put a pressure regulator on the line after the pump so the carburetor isn't overwhelmed. All this was being considered before it was advised to put a switch on the pump and use it only when needed, to start up after sitting a few days and to overcome vapor lock. But if you are to run it all the time, then you should add a regulator or what happened to me years ago could happen to you.

A place in Detroit has a fuel pressure regulator, but I looked locally and every place I went looked at me kind of weird. But when I explained that I wanted to control the fuel pump, a hydraulics supply place .. referred from an oil filter service place and also by a diesel fuel injection place...came up with a needle valve plus gauge as a substitute.

But as it turned out, adding a 3-way toggle switch and using the electric pump only as needed probably doesn't require the valve and gauge. I will say this. The gauge indicates the line is at 10 lb when the pump is on. This is the popular Airtex 8011. Big Kev has one that pumps only 3.5 psi, but I don't know what brand that is. After going through all this, I'd say that's the one to get no matter how you rig it up.

I haven't started the car yet. About to take it off jack stands. If it starts right up after sitting 2 weeks, I'll know it's wired correctly despite advice from the Ford place today. The motors on these pumps do in fact run continuously, even though they reach the desired 10 psi pressure. They have a bypass valve so I may have it wired correctly after all.

Joe

I didn't try to start the car, so maybe it is wired correctly. The pressure showed 10 psi and turning down the valve didn't reduce it. That seemed strange. But because of the non-stop action, I assumed it wasn't working right and may be wired incorrectly. We will see tonight. This may be a "nevermind." Sort of like every time I call my physician and ask How long have I got, Doc? Thanks.
Joe

In #1 in this thread I said the Tan/Brown wire from the Airtex 8011 attaches to the ground, just the opposite of the product instructions, sort of, because the car is a Positive (+) ground, and because in some forum, perhaps on another Packard site, that was the advice.

The product instructions assume the ground is negative. But the ground is the ground, no matter whether it is positive or negative. I read in some forum to reverse the wiring and attach the Tan/Brown wire to the ground, instead of attaching the black wire to the "ground (-)" per the instructions. I called Sact Vintage Ford where I bought the pump and they said Fords of that vintage are + ground, too, and that doesn't matter. Attach black wire to ground and tan wire to the switch, even tho the signs of those terminals are the opposite.

The pump activates, but doesn't stop unless I release the switch. If it were working, it would pump to its pressure and stop.

We will see tonight. I will switch the wires. I will also get a reading on the pump pressure.

Here is the pump, needle valve and gauge installed, with fuel filter far right. The tan wire is held by the bolt holding the bracket to the center of the frame cross member. Right next to the gas tank.

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I just checked on mine. Schedule is running 8-10 months wait, but worth it. Don is doing Dec 2010 - Jan 2011 orders now.

Can this place help?

http://acewichita.com/12_OwenDyneto.htm

Thanks, Howard. Can't wait to get home. Will take pix tonight and upload.
Joe

Thanks much, Howard. I do have an ohmmeter so I will check that. No juice, right? Just a continuity check?

Sorry (but you should have seen how puzzled I was installing the multi-terminal backup light switch from Max Merritt! My friend Vaughn figured it out.)


So no wires go to 1 or 2. It's internally connected already?

EXACTLY, Howard.

YES. The switch is off in the center position. It is springy and bounces back if you press it one way and stays switched if you press it the other.

YES it has a light in the end of toggle. (prob why it was spendy. Didn't notice that til I got home)