ok, update, bought square u bolts for trailer rear axle, 1 1/2 wide, need 1 inch wide, 1/2 inch thread.

its does pull up arm, did not lower jack cause back leg of bolt was against strut. need to make a cradle to keep bolt from moving. I am going to use 2 u bolts this was just a test.

I had about 3/8s of an inch to go before touching my tool, it will be easy with wheel off. I am sure I am high enough, with the jack I am about what craigs pictures shows.

1 inch square would let you machine slots for u bolts on tool, then you know they are not going to slide, but too hard to bend, I might take a piece out to machine shop and put 50 tons on it and see what happens.

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I will take pictures today, since they are off the engine, I know where one is!,,,,,

up date here are pictures of engine mount, my dad did these, see where I had to grind down head of one.

I will have to look for right side think its in the trunk, I think head needs to be ground down on both left and right.

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my ft mounts, I but bolts in them,, at the time no one was repairing them,

I agree with tim,

the upper u joint, the ball and trunion, if its org, could be worn, I had one that wore a groove, in the machined slot for ball.

and you can get the clipper/ exe,, ball and trunion, dodge uses it, its on the market,, I think it would be ok, the larger ball, was probably for more hp, but, what do you guys think?

hope the new ones are holding up,,

thanks,

if your in need,, let me know,

rik

but better wait to see how these work!!!

one of these days I am going to make more. back when I made these it was 80 bucks a can,,,i am sure it went up!

had to buy thru grainger.

all the rubber ones I've used gave up in about a year,,the bottom ones...

maybe to much up and down,,showing people how it works.

thanks again,,

rik

I made these back in the 90s, from molds my dad made,,used durathane,


I use the 55 on the bottom, with or without cup.

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well I jacked up the p side, link went up but not all the way, like craig said, but it was enough for me to get a length to cut .

either contact the zoo for an elephant ,,or wait till get engine in,

think I am going to make a cradle and bolt arm and tool, next time going to buy 1 inch flat stock, and cut it on band saw.

my raybestos bushings came, in better shape than moog, but made in mexico too.

thanks for all the input,

rik,

ps craig, I replaced these before, and made a spreader tool. and jig to hold bushing. thanks for the warning, cause an arm can get tweaked ,,

also it happened again let car down could not push down on fender, the shock I took out to have room with tool.???

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Here is the start of my control arm (link) tool, took the shape off of craigs picture in packard panther.

I used a 12 ton press, its 3/4x1, not set up to harden it, might use u clamps to hold it to link. or 2 plates and 4 bolts.

that's my 400 its on

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thanks very much , craig,

the engine is still out of mine, so it is easy to see,,the rubber torn, split, etc...

will i have a problem, if i replace the bushings with engine?,,,so much easrier,,

i have a complete, bendix, i got off a clipper, in a wrecking yard, years ago,, i wanted to get more off of it,,but,,didn't have the money,

not in the mood to put it on now..while i am thimking of it,,the trsns oil, we use is type (f) right?,,not (a),,

thanks rik