I would first suspect distributor timing and the condition of the points? Then perhaps check out the mixture screw on the carburetor to see if it is too lean?

Thanks for the suggestion. I backed off the engine a quarter of a turn, then I filled the cylinders with a 50/50 mix of diesel and ATF. Then, I removed the carb and valve cover and endeavored to clean the valve area as best I could. I'm glad I did because I found a piece of wire from a wire wheel in there. I then soaked the where the valves pass up into the block and guides hoping I can get penetrant from underneath. While I had the access to the valves, I took note of which valves were open and closed and recorded it down. I let it go two weeks then report back.

Hey Ross - Thanks for sharing the success story on the atf/acetone mix. I've considered doing that but am concerned that any spillage on the engine might ruin the paint on the engine, which has been done very nicely. I've been considering a thorough soaking of diesel/atf instead as some people seem to have luck with that.

Hey Ross - Thanks for sharing the success story on the atf/acetone mix. I've considered doing that but am concerned that any spillage on the engine might ruin the paint on the engine, which has been done very nicely. I've been considering a thorough soaking of diesel/atf instead as some people seem to have luck with that.

Thanks Dyneto. Yes, all I need to do is get about a 7/8" socket and grind a set of grooves to match the lugs on the bolt. I built one very similar to remove a bathtub drain, but it was a hair too big to use in this application.

I don't know. I haven't tried to turn the engine counterclockwise yet. I have to make a contraption to fit over the crank dog bolt to turn counterclockwise. The starting handle is engineered to go clockwise only.

Thank you. I will post some pics and post an entry.

Heads up -- wiring diagrams are available on packardclub.org

On the left side of the screen, scroll to "library" and you'll see the reference to the wiring diagrams.

Thanks very much. Yes, I do plan on dropping the back for a thorough cleaning and inspection. Is there any hope in filing the cylinders with diesel/atf or atf/acetone and letting it sit a few weeks?

I've got a problem I need some advice on. I have a 1931 Standard Eight that I acquired as a stalled 30 year long restoration. I pulled the plugs, put about a tablespoon of Marvel Mystery Oil down each cylinder and let it sit a while. The head had some carbon in it, and the cylinder walls looked fine. I then rotated the engine about a third of a turn which went fine, no binding noted, then let it sit about two weeks. I come back and try to rotate it more, but everything is stuck. Tried putting it in gear with gentle rocking, but didn't work.

Given I was able to get some rotation, I believe I have something stuck on the valve train which didn't get stuck until the cam lobe came in contact with the stuck valve. I pulled the valve cover and hosed down where the valve stem contacts the lifter with PB blaster and additionally hosed down the tops of the valves in the head with PB as well. What more can I do here?