According to the parts book, I think you're going to find a mixture. The type dallas is showing which are "springs" just pop into a hole & can be pried out with a sturdy putty knife over some padding. The "butterfly" type show in the catalog page above are a stud thru the hole with a nut holding. The larger pieces such as the arrow or emblem area also most likely nuts on stud. You can get an idea of where to expect either by looking at the parts book. If the particular strip or piece lists a nut along with the piece, then a stud, if a clip then usually the spring. Look at the plates for group # of the item and then check section 30 for the details.

At the accessible places such as inside the trunk and inside front fender, you should be able to see what is there. Inside the doors without taking panels off is more of a challenge.

Anything where there is no rear access like fender wells or welded structures usually have springs. Packard was known to throw a ringer on occasion though with some clips permanently mounted and the molding had to be slid over them a short distance via a notched opening on the underside of chrome.

Of course, if the molding has been removed & replaced before, you only can guess as to what was used to replace if the original clip was damaged.

Agree the patch idea should work just fine but would make sure it is either very well adhered at the top edge so it couldn't work loose & let the window catch it on the way down or else make it a long narrow strip. If the upper edge is above the lowest point the bottom of window would travel & there is always some of it the window is riding against, think it would lessen chances it could loosen & cause any binding issues.

Haven't tackled that series but sounds very much like a 54. Was a bit of PIA but do-able with some issues. Problem I ran into was the rivet replacement. Couldn't find any small flat head ones short enough (this was a few yrs ago before internet shopping a good option). Pop rivets heads available were too thick & tool wouldn't fit in channel so finally wound up using small flat head screws that would bury themselves in the felt. If you can get the proper rivets and tools, then that is most of the battle--otherwise, while not correct, screws will work although there was a couple of spots it was dicey. Modern adhesives are marvels, but not sure I would trust entirely.

Question is do 55 Pat/400 have them either. Never looked that closely but the resonator is listed as outlet pipe in manual. Different numbers for lower cars but 5580 had a separate number, no mention of 5588 so assume it used the same. 56 has a different number and is listed as 5680-88.

Another nice car but wondering about something else. While I'm sure Soviet people are as patriotic as any others, can't help but wonder about the sheer number. Consider the times, transportation & communication challenges to the other parts of country with what appear to be a phenomenal amount of people. How many were there because of what happened. Was it the social event of the season and the place to be so they're all jammed in for the fun or was it because the government "suggested" they be there to put a good show on things--or else wind up in Siberia.

There should be two lockout switches and one will not affect the other--just will prevent that particular function it controls from operating. The OD switch is on the lockout handle and the EC should be in dash labeled clutch or trans.

Randy Clipper47 is correct in the governor description and wiring-- if those are wrong, neither should be working. Standing still, the governor provides ground to the clutch relay EC so that is operational until it reaches speed. At that time, contacts switch and ground is supplied to overdrive to light the light and prepare solenoid while at same time EC relay drops out so clutch is no longer able to work. Here is a pict of a Packard governor showing the wires for each and location.

EDIT: My apologies to Clipper 47 for calling him Randy instead of Dave. That's what happens when down to one brain cell & miss your nap.

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Don't know what the definition of antique is there but here is older than 39 years--and some big restrictions on driving with antique (or historical) plates if you do go that route.

No pics necessary to apply but an inspection is done and they might take their own. All I can say is if your pics don't please them, then they are one picky bunch of SOB's--unless they inspect and find nothing but ground under the carpet.

I've seen lots newer cars looking lots worse from your part of the country. Was in Chicago area one year and a car passed on the expressway with the front fender flapping because it had rusted away--but it was licensed.

You know the demographics on these cars.


You're right. Guess there will always be a stretch limo market & someone needs to fill it.

Police cars seem to be going the Dodge route here, taxi cabs seem to be going the minivan direction and so on--but guess the Crown Vic still has a following too.

Interesting bit also hit the news about the Taurus being back. IIRC, that car was to be essentially one introduced a couple of years ago under another name which apparently didn't sell all that well. Do hope that it has more going for it this time around other than an established name.

Does the rod actually operate the second blades proportionally or just free them to open? Wondering how the MKS operation compares to the auxiliary velocity blades as used in the 56 version Rochester 4GC Packard used. That carb had the 4 regular throttle blades operated by linkage but also the extra pair in the secondaries which opened against spring pressure depending on air flow.

And a couple of days ago also on TCM, Mr Blandings Built his Dream House one of the prospective builders drove a shiny black 21st series.