If either limit switch failed, it would be a large problem-yes. On several damaged units I've seen, it seems the deed is done and splines sheared before the fuse even thinks about blowing.

Pros are from the official Packard reasoning plus makes changing a rear tire easier--and it's also a neat wow feature at the local cruise. Cons would be negligible if the level system is in proper order & you didn't wear something out or drain the battery showing it off.

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Quote: Probably when someone figured out the autothermic piston or else casting & foundry techniques advanced to the point that the other metal could be reliably & cheaply incorporated.

They probably bought it already done or had a roll process where individual small rollers were spaced & shaped to fit and fed the paint as the material rolled under. Stamped and shaped for use afterward.

I did the paint and wipe off the excess with lacquer thinner process on mine when re-doing. Turned out fairly decent although took some experimenting to get the right time to let paint dry then pressure, thickness & hardness of pad. Had to touch up a few spots but not terrible.

Did the Az shop give any indication of what work was done either time or what parts might have been changed?

Answering your question, I've successfully been inside a few. Problem would be that other than just checking for obvious worn or broken items, am not sure how much good it would do to just look since I no longer have any way to test things in operation--either before or after. Even just opening it up would also require a gasket set to do it properly. Would consider doing it though to give a second opinion if you wanted as long as we're not on a tight schedule.

On your R4 conversion, would require a bit more than a step up transformer to get the 12v. Not sure exactly what the trans requires in way of current capacity but Turbopackman had a link to a windshield wiper motor site (which I can't find right now). One of the accessories was a 6 to 12 v converter. There are several out there for running phones etc but if that one could run a wiper motor with all the trash and back emf that generates, could probably run a trans solenoid.

Yes, the throttle linkage is same as throttle cable. Interesting symptoms though. If it were only high range forward, would jump on throttle pressure as that is what controls the amount of force the clutches need to keep engaged. Too little pressure and slippage to the point of overheat & burning & finally no moving would occur after the few miles. Does the fluid smell burned or appear discolored?

How about low range movement? If none & since reverse is also involved, that leads to overall pressure. Assume you have checked the main items mentioned in troubleshooting a failure to move -- fluid level-12 quarts, selector valve adjustment and band adjustment. If those OK, then could be front pump --or a sticking valve--.

The pressure tests for front pump (and actually most of the pressures) are easily done by your mechanic with common materials--gauge, hose, fittings & no disassembly as the ports are external. Procedure is well described in service manual. Could go a long way to rule things out. If those pressures checked OK, then would be time for a more detailed internal pressure check or teardown.

Was plant in NY or was it the Utica, MI plant where V8 and Ultra production was? Believe they also did defense work there.

I drove a 51 with Ultra throughout high school and never was a car so mistreated yet be so reliable. Granted, it couldn't get out of its own way when trying to keep up with Hydramatics or almost anything else but it wasn't for lack of trying on my part--hence the abuse it suffered.

Out of curiosity, when you say it just stopped after 50 miles what happened. No high, no low, no DDrive or no nothing? Did the company in Arizona also re-install it in the car or did a local garage. Aside from a major internal breakage or not replacing something marginal, the only thing I can think of in such a short mileage failure is the throttle linkage totally out of adjustment when reinstalled. Probably the single most important thing yet the one usually overlooked or messed up due to lack of understanding how critical.

Kev, this is what I used on the 56 but don't have an earlier one to compare as to material used on your 54. Before anyone calls me on it, yes it is held on with pop rivets and not staples. About 15 yrs ago & looked for staples at the time. Was unable to find anything remotely close so went the pop rivet route being more concerned with something that worked than something correct. Am thinking now, it might be possible to use stainless or music wire for the material. It needs to be hard & rust resistant wire which that is but unsure how it could be crimped tight like a staple without some special tools.

The antisqueak is as mentioned except it was 3/4 wide instead of 3/8 like I first thought. 1/8 is too thick so anyone doing a 55-6, go with 1/16.

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51-3 same but different part numbers in 54 which might be chrome and again in 55-6. Think the general shape is the same although there is something different enough--maybe the locating pin or dowel size--that an early one didn't fit a 56 without some work when I tried. 51-4 squeak material is riveted on and there is a different part number for the stuff in 55-6. I know my 56 had the web type and was stapled but don't remember enough details on the earlier material type.

EDIT Randy has mentioned the differences and it was the pins