Don't know what the definition of antique is there but here is older than 39 years--and some big restrictions on driving with antique (or historical) plates if you do go that route.

No pics necessary to apply but an inspection is done and they might take their own. All I can say is if your pics don't please them, then they are one picky bunch of SOB's--unless they inspect and find nothing but ground under the carpet.

I've seen lots newer cars looking lots worse from your part of the country. Was in Chicago area one year and a car passed on the expressway with the front fender flapping because it had rusted away--but it was licensed.

You know the demographics on these cars.


You're right. Guess there will always be a stretch limo market & someone needs to fill it.

Police cars seem to be going the Dodge route here, taxi cabs seem to be going the minivan direction and so on--but guess the Crown Vic still has a following too.

Interesting bit also hit the news about the Taurus being back. IIRC, that car was to be essentially one introduced a couple of years ago under another name which apparently didn't sell all that well. Do hope that it has more going for it this time around other than an established name.

Does the rod actually operate the second blades proportionally or just free them to open? Wondering how the MKS operation compares to the auxiliary velocity blades as used in the 56 version Rochester 4GC Packard used. That carb had the 4 regular throttle blades operated by linkage but also the extra pair in the secondaries which opened against spring pressure depending on air flow.

And a couple of days ago also on TCM, Mr Blandings Built his Dream House one of the prospective builders drove a shiny black 21st series.

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I would hope they have something very serious besides a new fender or fancy interior in the works & taken more than just passing notice of their brothers across town.

Granted, the new(er) management seemed to have had a bit more foresight than others but the simple fact is Ford's in debt up to the tip of the nose. Todays cash cows possibly being tomorrows albatross should haunt them. There was a bit in the news today about GMs new board ordering the respective divisions to speed up the new car intros so that ought to be causing a bit of thought.

They may be selling Fusions today but how many Fusions does a Town Car make when it comes to $$. The standby Crown Vic police car isn't seen that often out here lately & in what seemed to be the pickup capitol of the world with one in every other driveway, those also seem to have dropped off quite a bit.

Not sure I'd call it a design problem but more an accumulation of coincidences.

The consensus seemed to be with nose down and the rear wheels being able to drop allowed the torsion bars to relax enough so with the weight, front wheel rode the upper stops. This placed a fair amount of upward strain on the pitman arm thru the linkage and with the wheels not being in the normal caster/camber relationship placed a large amount of lateral thrust on as well.

Like I said, proven or not, why take a chance.

This was a topic of a lot of discussion in various forums and publications that the weight and change in geometry on the front suspension caused by the front down puts enough strain on the pitman arm to crack it at the steering box splines. It seems to have been a TL issue, not the older cars. Possibly because the suspension has less resistance & can travel further bottomed out than a conventional suspension.

When in the normal position, there is not enough force--even when stationary--applied to do any damage by the normal steering etc but when towed at speed, and the front wheels kept from moving by the usual means of tying the steering wheel the increased leverage by the arm length, upward pressure of the tie rods and linkage plus the inertia of a turn does the damage.

Whether is is a proven fact or not, why take a chance.

I'm hoping the metal shavings are off the control lever threads. If not, then-----. The pot metal was a weak point. As Randy mentioned, he drilled the shaft. Others drilled both and had a roll pin inserted. There is/was also a reproduction lever made from brass by one of the regions. If someone knows if that is still available, think it would be a good move.

missing page. Maybe Kev can insert it in the proper place.

Here is a scan of the schematic with a bit better resolution. It is possible the light was "fooled" by feedback through the relay although I would have thought it might have been a bit dimmer at the point that happened. Most likely circuit, assuming the relays are OK, is thru the L&R coil and EC coil. Ground would be through the closed acc switch and normally closed governor EC contacts. The direct switch is also a possibility if defective. To prove it, disconnect the wires on EC and see if it still lights at neutral. If it does, then there are several possibilites but would involve one of the relay contacts being closed.

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Assuming you mean the Electromatic clutch manual for 19th & 20th series from Oct 46,https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?45, that is probably as good as you'll find. There are some procedures in Motors manuals but probably not as detailed.

Assuming yours has the 8 terminal relay box, looking at the first step to connect the light to BA and LR, I would suspect the switch. To rule out the other things you mentioned, disconnect the wire from LR and connect the light to BA & the wire only. That just leaves the switch in the circuit and if it still fails, then it's bad or needs adjusting or wire is shorted.