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Board index » All Posts (JoeSantana)




Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
Home away from home
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Joe Santana
Thanks, West, I screwed up. I meant the TOP moulding clips.

Moulding has basecoat now.

Heading down to son John's. See if we can resolve pin issue and pickup the repaired running board and locking door handle extension.

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Posted on: 2011/6/19 15:47
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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Joe Santana
I think I'm fine, West. Appreciate the offer. You mentioned RB side moulding. Those I got from Packard Motor Car and they came with clips. The TOP moulding strips are the ones I was looking for. They are avail from Steele if you buy the $700 package, as mentioned, and I'll probably mention it again sometime, cuz it kind of frosts me. But the combination of existing clips and the nail screws I'll make should work.

I'm guessing you just glue it down as close to the original position as you can and then drill new holes for the clip/screws from the top rather than coming up from the bottom using the existing hole and coming through the middle of a rubber pillow. We could possibly drill a few positioning holes in the rubber and line them up with original holes using an awl before the contact cement locks up.

Finished sanding and putting the basecoat on the window/door moulding as Fathers Day wishes roll in from various and sundry locations.

Posted on: 2011/6/19 13:53
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
Home away from home
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Joe Santana
Progress on a few fronts.

WINDOWS: The question about the rubber dust seal on the side windows is answered. Steele Rubber's Side Window Weatherstrip 70-0241-57 double lip weatherseal is used for 1/4" glass in the metal bottom channel carrier. MS Glass, a couple doors away from the Beaverton Auto Upholstery, will install it. I missed it because their is already such a variety of window channel (convt top frame rails have one type, front of the front side window another, and one that slips inside the stainless window frames) in a convertible sedan I thought I had them all.

The 1940 FRONT WINDOW MECHANISM regulator scissor action was also solved, in theory at least, with a plastic bushing and nylon washer. More on the thread for that topic.

WINDSHIELD: MS Glass will also install the windshield at the upholstery shop while the Duchess is in there this week. It has new rubber and rechromed trim. They are saying they need the windshield moulding, so I am attempting to finish the paint and wood grain on that this weekend.

INTERIOR DOOR MOULDING: These have been stripped, primed with direct to metal primer, sanded, filled, sanded, and primed again last night. They will be sanded with 400 this morning and sprayed with Dupont Colorbase and Colorbase maker, 1 to 1. Sanded again and painted again. Then I get to try woodgraining on the straight strips. It looks so easy in the video! We'll see.

RUNNING BOARD TOP MOULDING AND SIDE MOULDING. The SIDE moulding pieces from Packard Motor Car Co were shipped in plastic pipe and wrapped in clear plastic. I haven't unwrapped them yet.

I was missing one of the TOP moulding strips, but of course, you can't buy what you need, or just the CLIPS from Steele. Thankful that they make it, but policy like that says something culturally about who they cater to, and I'm just a guy who wants to get my old family car restored and, unfortunately, I'm not filthy rich. But one finds a way. Jim, fellow 1803 1377 owner, was missing one side and had to bite the bullet and buy the complete set for $700 new and sold left overs to his long, long time friend Dan and I bought Dan's left overs. I've been cleaning those up and stainless steel is great that way. I only needed the 11" piece so I have a bunch left over and will sell for $10 a foot, no minimum in protest, plus shipping. Clean ones in photo are below the Mason-Dixon Line.

The side moulding CLIPS, not being able to buy those without shelling out $700, is a problem. I have most of my original ones, but with new rubber, Jim's suggestion and Vaughn's too was to do what they did, grind the heads of a hundred small machine screws until they slip into the moulding retainer lips. I'm going to try something similar. 50# nails threaded 4-40, washers and nuts. The reason for screws in either case is to help hold down the new rubber matting.

Son John replaced the broken bolt on the running board by slitting the retainer, peeling it back, removing the broken bolt, grinding the head of the new bolt and tacking it, then closing and welding the retainer up. Jim suggested sanding the back side of the matting before we apply it to help it adhere. The running board is full of holes. I'm not sure we can get things lined up exactly as they were. I held back one board to use as a visual guide for placing the new matting. I'm thinking we would just drill more holes after it's on for replacing the top moulding strips.

NOTES ON MY WINDSHIELD: I'm sure it's happened to you. It did to me for years. If you're interested in selling this portable junk yard, let me know. I saved several. I was looking through my files and found this one left on my car in 1960-something when I was attending the University of San Francisco. Just for the heck of it I googled this name, picturing that only a little old lady could have a name like that, and would long gone by now. Lo, a very interesting life story unfolded online, of Japanese internment camps and real estate success with her husband in Utah, and yes, schooling in San Francisco. I sent off an email. More later.

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Posted on: 2011/6/19 9:21
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Re: She's Here!
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Joe Santana
Welcome, Lauren,
There will be lots to learn in life starting with today, which is Father's Day. I have a stack of Packard supplier catalogs and eBay links for you to peruse. Stay cute.
Joe

Posted on: 2011/6/19 8:27
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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Joe Santana
This solution seems to work, though the doors are at the upholstery shop now. Black snap in plastic bushing, special nylon washer, nylon 1/4-24 machine screws, flat washers and nuts. Also stuck a 5/16 nut in there as a spacer temporarily.

We'll see if this works once everything is together. Something like this will definitely work, so thanks all for assistance.

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Posted on: 2011/6/18 16:04
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Re: Help, help, help. 1940 front door window mechanism
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Joe Santana
O yes, Randy. There's a guide against the inside of the door for the lower end of the secondary arm. I'm trying to figure out what connects the 2 arms at the cross of the scissors. Could be 2 disks, one on top of the crossing and one below, held together by 2 screws and nuts. Probably a bushing so the disks would move easily as it scissored when the window was cranked up or down.
I do appreciate you input and thinking about this.
Thanks,
Joe

Posted on: 2011/6/17 23:25
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Re: Help, help, help. 1940 front door window mechanism
Home away from home
Home away from home

Joe Santana
I'll look for wear, but of course, I cleaned up and painted these in 1990. And they are at home, so I'll inspect tonight. Thanks for help.

Posted on: 2011/6/17 13:32
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Re: Help, help, help. 1940 front door window mechanism
Home away from home
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Joe Santana
Thanks, Howard.
The spring on mine in the photo and drawing is on the crank part (in the left side of the photo). There isn't any catch for the spring on the arm, so I think it must be different and hopefully simpler. I do have an extra set of pins I could use that were made to the wrong specs, my boo-boo, if a spring actually goes there.

Posted on: 2011/6/17 13:30
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Help, help, help. 1940 front door window mechanism
Home away from home
Home away from home

Joe Santana
I'm really stuck on this. If no one knows what goes into that junction, are there any guesses? Or other resources I can check? Would be much appreciated since it's one of those niggling details that is holding up a lot of assembly on the front doors. Thank you for suggestions.
Joe

Posted on: 2011/6/17 12:45
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
Home away from home
Home away from home

Joe Santana
RUNNING BOARD: What it looks like bare naked after burning off all the rubber and soaking in the rust tank, the Oregon way.

UPHOLSTERY: Progress on front seat cushion.

WOOD TOP RECEPTACLE: It took assistance from Theron and Shelby from Beaverton Auto Upholstery, plus Gary Martin, Martin Model & Pattern, who crafted the box,http://www.martinmodel.com/, my son John, and myself to coax the box in. We started with 3 parts, the box proper and the two arms that jut forward to where the top brackets mount.

Steve Macleay, BAU, suggested SparVar, marine varnish, used on their boat projects. Once varnished, the work on the top can commerce next week.

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Posted on: 2011/6/16 22:58
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