Valuable information. Thanks.

The NAPA part number for the rotor on the x ref on this site is out of date. Anyone know the current NAPA part number for the rotor on the 356 engine?

When I replaced exhaust manifold gaskets on my 47 356 engine, I installed the metal sandwich type gaskets and had the ports ground before installing. While tuning the car, I noticed that there is some exhaust leak somewhere. I was careful not to tighten the manifold too tight as it needs room to expand.

Another post, below, has a discussion where the owner settled on 35 lbs for torque.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=19973&forum=1&post_id=196835#forumpost196835

I would be a lot more comfortable with a uniform measurement.

Any thoughts??


OOOPS! Despite my faulty information that it was not available Mike directed me to the engine manual and it is on page 45 of the engine manual 25 to 30 LBS.

Howard rescues me on a regular basis, too!!!

which model is it?

My car is a 47 Clipper 2106. I have the Packard Tune up bulletin. In it, they are using a Sun type machine for setting up the engine. I do not have a Sun machine!

Question : should the vacuum line be disconnected and plugged when reading the dwell angle? There is no mention of this in the bulletin. The points were carefully set and the engine runs beautifully. However, the dwell is about 20 degrees at 800 RPM--with the vacuum line connected. It does increase to 27 degrees with engine RPM--Which makes sense if the vacuum advance is working. So, what is the best procedure?

A friend of mine had a high end restoration done on his Clipper. He used a Hotronics battery disconnect. It is operated by a mini toggle under the dash. Great theft deterrent and one not need to raise the hood to disconnect the battery. With shipping about $157. I got one as soon as I saw his in action!
https://hotronicsproducts.com/battery-disconnect/

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Made the job effortless!! Thank you Howard!!

I removed the T-bolts and cleaned them with a wire wheel brush. Next, before installing the T-bolts, I coated the threads with anti-seize. I ran the nuts down all the way to get all the threads coated, then removed them.

When tightening the straps, I tightened them enough so the straps were tight against the tank but there is a point in the very middle of the tank where they do not contact the tank. I was concerned about over tightening which might cause them to fail.

BTW, Summit Racing and Tanksinc.com both carry the fuel strap T-bolts.
A pic of the operation below:

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Thanks Howard,
I just got the tool and am starting on it.

I am reinstalling the tank. No matter what I do, I cannot get the tank strap bolts to go through the hole in the frame. It is as though they were too short but, they weren't as the tank came out!! There must be a trick to it.

Any advice??