Interesting. I wonder what would fit on my '40 110. Could I get 70 series under those fenders without a problem?

Mandatory after a rebuild. I did that on my 115C last year and it was night and day in braking and pedal feel.

After all that work you deserve a high quality, high octane adult beverage.

You've earned it.

I've used JB weld on two Ford 8N exhaust manifolds. The oldest repair is 15 years, the newest is about 8. The gasket had eroded and exhaust gasses eroded the manifold over years of use by the prior owner. Took me a couple of layers of JB weld, then some sanding on my belt sander. My second N had a bad casting by the look of it; much easier repair.

Have had zero issues with it ever since. I use both tractors pretty heavily; one in the summer, the other in the winter.

Also used JB weld on two badly scored air compressor cylinder bores; I got the compressor for free; it had been sitting outside for years. New gaskets and air filter, cleaned up the motor, good to go after the cylinder work. That's five years ago; use that compressor regularly.

I have heard of several steam engines (1870-90 version, think huge farm tractors) that had their bores repaired the same way. That's how I discovered you could use JB weld in unexpected ways...

Either shop manuals or sales literature is the only way I've done it, but I haven't had the need to go very deeply into it....

Sorry for the dupe post. They're AC. (Found it in the shop manual. Should've started there....) All '37's use AC; they went to SW in '38.

Just a few thoughts--I've never worked on anything of your vintage.

How's your compression? Seems that if you have a bunch of stuck valves your compression would be low, and the vacuum would be zero as well. Sitting in a museum for a long time might have caused a lot of things to seize up in unexpected ways.

But I'm only a hack amateur with a few decades of fiddling around with engines.

Also, if there are any rubber lines in this, you could see the lines suck shut on the "inside" while the outer shell looks fine. I've had lines (fuel lines from the tank to the pump) suck shut in a similar manner under vacuum.

Found it in the shop manual. 37's are AC Delco; 38 and up are SW.

Perfect. My phone camera and I, or my inspection camera, will check this out.

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Well, no markings on the back of the gauge support panel, dangit.

Good idea.

I happen to have an ancient skidsteer. When I need to move an old car, I remove the bucket, and put an old spare on it, strapped to the mounting plate. Then push the car around.

I do like sitting down to do the work...