Sorry for the dupe post. They're AC. (Found it in the shop manual. Should've started there....) All '37's use AC; they went to SW in '38.

Just a few thoughts--I've never worked on anything of your vintage.

How's your compression? Seems that if you have a bunch of stuck valves your compression would be low, and the vacuum would be zero as well. Sitting in a museum for a long time might have caused a lot of things to seize up in unexpected ways.

But I'm only a hack amateur with a few decades of fiddling around with engines.

Also, if there are any rubber lines in this, you could see the lines suck shut on the "inside" while the outer shell looks fine. I've had lines (fuel lines from the tank to the pump) suck shut in a similar manner under vacuum.

Found it in the shop manual. 37's are AC Delco; 38 and up are SW.

Perfect. My phone camera and I, or my inspection camera, will check this out.

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Well, no markings on the back of the gauge support panel, dangit.

Good idea.

I happen to have an ancient skidsteer. When I need to move an old car, I remove the bucket, and put an old spare on it, strapped to the mounting plate. Then push the car around.

I do like sitting down to do the work...

Can anyone help me out on determining which gauges I have on my '37? I need to order a sending unit, and apparently there was an either/or on S-W or AC -Delco.

Any hints on determining which I have?

Can anyone help me out on determining which gauges I have on my '37? I need to order a sending unit, and apparently there was an either/or on S-W or AC -Delco.

Any hints on determining which I have?

Thanks--I just ordered paint for my '37.

Todays project was removing the (modern) fuel tank from my '37, in prep for the install of an original tank from a 120. However I'm missing the original fuel pickup tube and float assembly.

Any sources you can suggest?

I used copper sealant on my 115 and my old Ford 8N. Works fine.