plug for my shafts

5/8s

thanks for the tip jack,

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the wsy dave did it is the easiest way to do it.

i did have the dd not disengage ,,, i was screwing around with the throttle rod on the engine, had it out of wack. the cross shaft and the throttle and the carb linkage, had it out of wack,,

when it was put back like it was supposed to be, worked fine,

what about, end play?, reactor end play?

with my 56,

i see if it will fire first, if it fires then you used the left over fuel,

then i hit the carb,,

i do this to non fuel injected engines

OD, Jim, Jack,,

thanks,

my plan was to go as high as i could in block,,so it is being done.

that bushing is PC 780.. around 10 dollars. i am going to make a longer sleeve to give upper shaft more support. i'll give shaft a few thou of movement

also with the PI pump, since they pushed shaft down, that means there is less up in the dist. drive gear.

once i get into this i will take pictures. i was going to make a one piece drive shaft with a step to replace sleeve.

so i need to look for cast iron,,bronze is easier to machine. bronze i have.

also going to have that PI plate re surfaced. should toss it. the bushing there will help keep the shaft in alignment.

thanks again everyone.

randy's ebay car,

well jack answered my question here after re-reading this thread.

the upper was never dealt with. With the pi pump,

i would go with jack for rebuild.

i may go with a one piece shaft. get rid of that sleeve.

but press a piece of stock over shaft to hold shaft up/,, shaft supported all the way up into main bearing cap.

thinking of using stainless for bushing,,and shaft.

FYI,

I took my pi pump apart, its been sitting since jack mailed it back,

What i see, and plan on doing, that coupling that pins the 2 shafts, my was broke. no big deal, i'ii make one.

i plan on leaving the lower shaft bore alone, and make a bushing to replace that coupling that goes up into the main bearing. the bushing will be at least 2 inches long. Will have step to meet the od of that part that the coupling goes into.

There is a lip in the main bearing cap which i might machine to match the bore. that will give more lenght for bushing.

the shaft will be supported all the way into the main. no slop.

without machining the main which gives more meat to the bushing,

this could be a do it yourself fix. once you have the bushing.

ok, will this help the problem. i really don't care for the way they did the pi pump. and permatex was used on the plate, \

Thank you BH

I have the cam plate, think i am going to look into the long bushing, its something i can do on the mill.

but going packard pump

i;m still torn,

want to stay packard, pi pump, but like the melling,idea., what jack vines showed on his eval of pi pump, its ok, but i am glad he took it apart, showed all the crud that would of went into engine if it was not cleaned first.

staying with packard, i would sent it to jack vines. or ross if he does them.

i think that thick plate is over kill. and looks like cheap brass bushing. but must be bronze. i hope.