You guys are very brave to answer my question. No I have more than the usual going on. One thing I wonder if you can clear up for me. In the diagram, at the rear, stop & dir signal light area, it shows green wires going the the stop light. It also shows wires going to the signal lights.
On most cars that I have worked on, they use a dual element bulb as does mine. The one element is brighter and used for the stop & dir signals. But in the wiring diagram they show one wire going to the stop ckt and another two wires going to the turn signal elements which is one and the same with the stop ckt is it not? What am I missing here and why am I confused???

Does anyone have any better wiring diagram on the turn signals than what is in the shop manual? I am getting very weak rear turn signals because of not getting the full 6 volt signal. I jumpered the stop switch and then measured the voltage both at the stop switch and at a rear bulb. I was only getting 4 volts so dropping two volts somewhere!! It appears that the stop switch gets its voltage from the rear of the headlight switch. And that could be a can of worms. Since I am not going through the ignition switch that isn't the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? Not sure what to check next.

I have an R11 overdrive that has a few parts missing. I can provide the part numbers for identification. Does anyone on this website have any R11 parts for sale? Or where is a good reliable source to purchase overdrive parts? Suspect they are quite expensive. Wonder if anyone has one laying around that perhaps is not working that they would part with for parts at a reasonable price. Hoping to get some leads. Thank you.
Lee

Did the '37 to '39 Packard use a left hand thread brake drum wheel stud on the left front?
Lee Noga

To HH56
Thank you so much for the excellent help. I will try to remove the steering wheel tomorrow since that seems to be the only way to get at the turn signal assy below the wheel.
Lee

How do you remove the horn ring? Most of the time you just push in and turn and it will come off. I am doing that an no luck. There must be another way. Can't find any info on how to do it. Can you give me any advice?
Lee
p.s. I may have to remove the steering wheel also as I want to get to the directional signal mechanism.

Well today I will attempt to remove the valve timing cover which is no easy task, but things point to the cam gear to perhaps being one tooth off. My vacuum is quite low and goes lower as the rpm are decreased to almost 12 or 15 instead of 18 indicating late timing. Also took compression and all cylinders are low but even. This should not be, with new rings, valve grind, etc not long ago. Will post of what I find. Sure hope I am not not spinning wheels.

Got it okay. Got the carb installed on the '42 but haven't started it yet. Have other problems. I am thinking my cam timing is off by one tooth retarded. Only one way to find out and I am going to remove the timing cover. Yes a big job!!

Still need someone who knows the Packard straight eight engine very well. Since I may be chasing a tiger by the tail with rebuilding the carburetor etc, I am concerned however with low vacuum reading at idle etc. At idle around 375rpm I am getting less than 15"Hg and my vacuum gage states above the reading of late timing. I have just timed the ignition however and it is correct. So wondering if I have the timing gear one tooth off when I rebuilt the engine. I wouldn't think I would make a mistake like that but one is not always 100% perfect. If that would be the case, how would I ever determine this without almost having to remove the engine from the auto? To correct I would have to remove the head, all the valves, hydraulic lifters, etc. Almost a complete disassembly! Question is: if I find that the camshaft gear is one tooth off, would there be any easier way to correct? I suspect the gear is bolted onto the camshaft. Could the gear be taken off and the cam rotated by one tooth and then put back on?
Lee

Distributor is in good shape.