I am running AMSOIL Super Shift Synthetic Racing Transmission Fluid in my 56 Clipper Deluxe. It has Ultramatic 540481 which is one of the carry over 55s. I started with this fluid with the rebuild so I have no direct comparison. It is a Type F fluid targeting minimal clutch slippage. I typically use Drive. Reverse, Low, and High all engage and shift smoothly and positively. Direct Drive engages softly and disengages easily on both acceleration and slowing. Kickdowns all work well and positively. Throttle response is very good. I have tested all six of the external pressure ports and the pressures are reasonable based on the test chart. I have had no temperature issues using only the stock oil cooler (I have a temperature gauge). The only thing I'm still looking at is the slightly low direct drive pressure when engaged at lower speeds. At highway speeds it is fine. I do not have any long distance travel to make comments on that aspect. Everything works well thus far.

Yes, that looks right to me, it matches mine and the diagram. It can be assembled multiple ways and still work. The springing is what you need to minimize wear on your new part. Just remember to grease it. The lack of lubrication is what caused mine to fail.

My collar still had the tab, but all of the detents had significant wear. I attributed the wear to the grease issue at the lower spring limiting the shift lever travel and causing it to scrape.

I use P-80 Rubber Assembly Lubricant. I didn’t remove or replace the rubber, the shift lever went in without too much trouble.

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Your eyes do not deceive you. It has Super on the dash and has Super trim in the sides. Hmmm.

I would expect that they had no idea about the broken tab but they could ram the shifter too far and they thought that the travel was limited by the pointer. Then wrapping the pointer would keep would stop the shifter travel a little sooner. Is there a lot of play between the pointer tab and the hole in the tube and is it the tab or the hole that is worn?

The metal shavings are due to the flange being softer than the shifter lever. I got a NOS flange from Kanter to replace my worn one. Much of the wear on the flange was due to the shift lever not being able to move freely and pull back far enough to clear it. The spring for the shift lever is located at the other end of the steering column below the linkage to the transmission. While there is a grease fitting, mine had obviously been missed as it was frozen. I had to completely disassemble the column. Once cleaned, greased, and a new flange installed, everything works well.

I have the Coker BFG Silvertown 225/75R15s on my '56 Deluxe. I have been happy with them so far. No problems around town or on the highway.

I had my '56 rebuilt by John Wolf & Co,http://antiqueinstrument.com/
I'm happy with the result.

I’m interested. PM sent.

The tube is held in place by three tabs on the back cover.

The red color for the indicator is created by material attached to the back of the speedometer face.

The white material in the middle of the tube is very thin and reminiscent of a latex balloon. It is as if it were painted onto the inside of the tube. It looks more like it was broken than failed from heat. I picked up this speedometer for parts and it looks like it was previously apart as the odometer has been reset.

I do not remember what my speedometer looked like back of the high beam indicator when I sent it out to be rebuilt.

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