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Re: dash removal
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I have found that the secret for removing under dash nuts and bolts is a battery powered drill and a "flexible" extension. By this I mean flexible through its entire length.
Although I think I paid a lot less, here is the "true value" version. I also recommend "deep" sockets. http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-2322/Detail As long as you can contort yourself to see it, this will usually do it.
Posted on: 2009/3/9 11:08
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Re: Armored Ignition Cable
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Quote:
but am wondering what the reason is for the heavy armored cable. If the car has its original coil, the armored cable covers the power terminal to the coil. This makes connecting an alternate power source difficult. On old cars, with a separate "starter button" it worked independantly of the ignition switch, which only provided power to the coil. So, all that was necessary to start (steal) it was another power source to the coil ("hot wire"), then you just hit the starter. On most cars, you could also "hot wire" by jumping at the ignition switch. I believe the Packard "armor" prevents that also. For this reason, Ford provided a column lock as part of the ignition switch. You could start it by "hot wiring", but with a locked column, you couldn't drive it. I think Ford stopped that in '48.
Posted on: 2009/3/9 0:00
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Re: 120 vent lever, picture?
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Interestingly still around and used today. Eastman has a pdf of their various tenite types & properties on their website. Wonder if the dashes & steering wheels used the same stuff because they, for the most part, sure didn't hold up as well as that handle. I suspect that may be UV degradation, there isn't a lot of direct sunlight under the dash.
Posted on: 2009/3/8 23:49
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Re: dash removal
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I am not "hands on" with a '40, but here is hte usual deal. If you remove the windshield mouldings, you will probably find a series of screws across the top of the dash. There are also screws on each end of the bottom side of the dash.
It seems to me that the screws along the bottom are "bolts", meaning there are nuts on the underside of the dash. You can see a rear view of the gauges for a '38 here, four bolts at the bottom, 2 studs near the top: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220372149005&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem=
Posted on: 2009/3/8 23:45
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Re: 120 vent lever, picture?
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G'day Faust, Thank you, sure looks the same. There does seem to be a color difference. I thought that was age, but now I have learned about Tenite numbers. It does seem that the RHD cars "flips" the lower portion of the lever sections. Quote: Although not quite local, but only an ocean and a continent separate us, It does seem further than it did, now that they have eliminated international "surface mail". I used to send a lot of pre-war Buick stuff to OZ and NZ. The cost of sending a small item has increased about 400%. I recently sent about 1200 pounds of FIAT parts to Melbourne, "carriage by sea". Freight and inland fees were only 4 times what it cost to send a piece of '48 Buick trim to Melbourne. If you are ever in that position, paying for delivery to your door may actually save fees over picking it up at the dock. I think it avoids some "union work rules".
Posted on: 2009/3/7 20:34
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Re: 120 vent lever, picture?
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Shape wise, knob sure does look identical to those repro'd for 40-47 but curious about the shaft size & color. The 46-7 shaft has slightly over 1/8 width whereas the 38 one looks a bit thicker unless it's a photo delusion.. Any idea how yours compares to the 40-41. If same, then wonder if the 40 knob would fit & you'd be wasting your time.. It is not handy for me to measure at the moment, but there is distortion in the photo. It looks like a rod, it is flat. I don't know of a local 40-41 to compare it to. If it is the same, I wonder why Yesterday;s Radio doesn't list it? Could be oversight.
Posted on: 2009/3/7 14:20
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Re: 120 vent lever, picture?
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Looks extremely similiar if not the same as the one already in reproduction; see page 5 of Yesterday's Radio catalog. They were attached by virtue of the thermoplastic nature of the material, i.e. heated, inserted, and allowed to cool. I had looked at that, and didn't see it. I had better look again. I was ready to head for the art supply store and get some rubber molding material and casting resin.
Posted on: 2009/3/7 14:16
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Re: A better solution for pitted brightwork parts?
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If you want a better finish, there are various "hi temp" metal/alloy fillers available which will withstand powder coating temperatures. Having a little brain fart at the moment, when I think of a brand name I will post. The "hi temp" part is important, not all of them will take the heat.
Posted on: 2009/3/7 6:32
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Re: 120 vent lever, picture?
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If I have figured out the system, a picture is attached.
Attach file:  (72.74 KB)
Posted on: 2009/3/7 4:29
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Re: 120 vent lever, picture?
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Did you have any particular year of "120" in mind? Sorry, I didn't expect any variation. The car is a '38, so technically it is an "Eight" instead of "120". The lever is flat and I don't see any way it theads on. It almost appears to have been cast in place. I supect it is a "press fit".
Posted on: 2009/3/6 13:36
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