thank you Howard,

great testchart and I think it is rather impossible to replace that with a resistor-type sender, you have to switch in an electronic that makes pulses (with a ballast resistor) to the instrument.

now we can claim, Packard wasn?t only the inventor of the steering wheel, the H-shifting sceeme, but also of digital car electronics!

this is how the thermostat is fixed with the retainer and the correct seal I think. (shows my 49, but I think its the same thing)

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I don?t know which was the first car with tubeless tires in Europe, but I remember the fintail Mercedes of the early 60ies was with tubes and the S-class starting 1965 was without. The wheels got the index "H2" for two humps.

In my collection the youngest tube type wheel is a 1973 Mille-Miglia Mercedes after market LM that does have no humps... you must use a tube in it to keep the tire on the rim. The Landrover Defender used tube type wheels as one of the last in the world. You could drive offroad with low pressure without the risk loosing the tire.

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I worked on an answer for over an hour... but was automatically logged out.. the only fault of this forum is the short login time

all my text is lost and now I will only repeat the consumption

I will go back to stone age and use a dipstick ((

If anyone is interested in the electrical funktions, I will try to explain again

thank you, but what is a "pulse" unit?

my float is rotten, the linkage rusty and fragile like a salted pretzel stick and the head of the unit just a piece of rust, I think there is nothing to repair.

the condition of my tank sending unit is absolutely hopeless, and I try to find some replacement. The original one is too expensive (with shipping, tax and my thing beond repair, I will end up at 500$), so that I?ll have to find another solution.

Does anyone know a sender from a more modern car that will fit? I do have one in my storage (unknown vendor) that will fit with an adaptor ring. What is the neccessary resistance between empty and full (I don?t want to ruin the instrument)?

thank you from far away
Michael

...There is a torque spec on the bolts, if it still leaks after that much torque your problem is elsewhere...

it may be too much torque that deforms the housing! you should check if it is plain with a piece of steel or glas before, I had to hammer a lot on my outlet to get it plain again after the whole engine went rusty and ugly by the leaking.

if the steering collumn is the same as on my 49 and you don?t have the bracket, I just made this bracket and still kept the paper pattern. I can post the dimensons

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today my MaxMerrit package arrived... what you get is not the original bellows thermostat but a normal modern one... with a nice cork seal, for 15,-$

It fits in the outlet with the retainer (+10,- $)

thank you,
the center chrome came off with disconnecting the center bulb wire at the instrument-lite switch and the cig-lighter wire at the headlite switch. Now it was easy to connect a new blue wire to the "T" port of the switch... but absolutely Ross was right, it would be much more better to find the T-ail-wire somewhere else and just crimp on some wire for the front parking lights. Positive effect of all these work is the perfect accses to clean all the lovely chrome parts.

to overhaul the speedo would be a nice idea... perhaps bring it to a specialist who can make it show "km" instead of miles.. but I think I will struggle with that. the risk to destroy something is the problem, the old wiring is to stiff to move the instruments out.

I thought I could connect the new wire from the engine-bay directly end to end, but I will have to cut them somewhere between firewall and instruments.

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