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Board index » All Posts (1941_180)




Re: Packard super 8 Serpentine Front Runner Setup
#21
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Howard,

Ugh, Yeah, that was one of the pieces I thought was a horn mount. Oops - looks like my grand plan for the accessory brackets has a critical flaw, pretty sure that is not going to fit Guess I'll have to see if there is a workaround before I start over.

Posted on: 2017/6/25 13:53
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Re: Packard super 8 Serpentine Front Runner Setup
#22
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Also of note, the top alternator mount (slider) is actually the original generator upper mount, so I thought it was neat I was able to re-use that.

Posted on: 2017/6/24 17:21
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Re: Packard super 8 Serpentine Front Runner Setup
#23
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Howard, is this what you are referring to in the first paragraph (see photo)?

Also, I am not sure about the second paragraph. I am still unaware of the function of some of the components I still have. I'll probably start a "help me identify what these things are" type post in the prewar forum as I get the engine in and start putting the car back together.

It is exciting consolidating parts on the engine and being able to figure out where they go. Having piles of parts and pieces at the beginning of the project that was disassembled by someone else on a relatively unique car with little documentation was/is daunting.

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Posted on: 2017/6/24 17:18
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Re: Packard super 8 Serpentine Front Runner Setup
#24
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Sorry about the photo, it shows upright on my computer, but sideways in the post..If I click on the image it shows it upright as well, so

Everything is above the engine mount, so access shouldn't be an issue.

The Brackets have bolts welded on to it moving the canister filter ~1" backwards.

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Posted on: 2017/6/23 18:19
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Packard super 8 Serpentine Front Runner Setup
#25
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Hey Guys,

I thought this came out pretty well, so I figured I would share it here. Two of my goals when putting my car back together was to run a modern aftermarket AC system, and to run a throttle body fuel injection system (FI tech), so this (plus the AC) meant I needed to do a 12v conversion as well.

I will be posting some more info in the future, but for now, here is the *mostly* finished setup.

The main components are modified March small block Chevy short water pump crank and waterpump pulleys, a custom machined crank adapter, and some custom brackets and a small 0.1" spacer to line the WP pulley up with the crank.

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Posted on: 2017/6/23 1:39
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Re: 1941 180 Clutch and Throwout Bearing Questions
#26
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Hey Guys, Quick update in case anyone else happens to find this thread in the future and faces a similar problem.

The throwout bearing from Kanter fit right on and was a super easy press on/press of swap.


Also, I ended up figuring out that you can't fight the clutch fork in once the clutch and pressure plate are installed. So I pulled those out, and took the advice posted on here about using some nuts to push the forks in. I am posting a picture here to help out those in the futre.

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Posted on: 2017/6/23 1:27
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Re: Clutch Pressure Plate Torque Specs (1941 super 8, 180)
#27
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Thanks for the quick response Howard - I owe you a beer (or non-alcoholic beverage if you are so inclined) If I am ever up your way.


I'll go ahead and use blue for peace of mind.

Posted on: 2017/6/12 21:49
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Re: Clutch Pressure Plate Torque Specs (1941 super 8, 180)
#28
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Also, Should I use (red) locktite?

Posted on: 2017/6/12 21:30
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Clutch Pressure Plate Torque Specs (1941 super 8, 180)
#29
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Hey Guys,

Real quick - can anyone give me the torque spec on the 6 ~3/8" bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel? I would Imagine it would be around 35-50 lbft.

Also, while we're on the topic, I've looked at the prelim shop manual and other documents that are in the literature section of this site and while they have helped, I wouldn't consider them a detailed shop manual. Can anyone recommend a 'full' manual I can download or buy, so I can stop bugging you guys with these silly questions!

Posted on: 2017/6/12 21:23
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Re: 1941 180 Clutch and Throwout Bearing Questions
#30
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

hynesjm
Quote:
What the nuts do is simulate continuously stepping on the clutch pedal so as to keep the pressure plate retracted. The levers are kept inside the housing and with the pressure plate retracted, that allows the entire assy to slip up past the clutch plate and TOB easier as well as to be able to insert and tighten the retaining bolts to the flywheel without fighting the springs as much. There is not a lot of clearance in the 356 bellhousing once the TOB and fork is in position.


I'm picking up what you're putting down. It is tight in there, and it kind of surprised me how the bell was designed to be put on before the flywheel -- no way I can get to the upper two pressure plate bolts without rotating the motor. I'll keep the trick with the 3/8" nuts in mind if I start having trouble.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Posted on: 2017/6/11 21:52
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