HH & Company,

No idea if the San Luis Obispo Packard dealer used the Packard Fresh Air kit or not without seeing details of another in a car. Stewart-Warner sold three million South Winds from the '30s through early '50s for 6-volt US cars.

Maybe in Buffalo or Duluth having heat "within 90 seconds" a draw, but again, the idea of tapping gasoline so to do instead of the commonsense hot water heater seems wasteful, silly even.

There are several detailed explanations of the South Wind heater on YouTube, inc. one operating in a '41 Plymouth.

You'd think i was pulling a fast one or facing excommunication for paying less than half for similar but superior material from a helpful young woman at the organ supply company Steve58L8134 graciously steered me to. The natives are restless, indeed. One of our compatriots above seems all but ready to launch litigation against this 46,000-sq.ft. Erie, PA pipe organ parts manufacturer established in 1924, first year for Packard's straight eight.

Here's a shot of all eight of my dash switches. In descending order from left: head lights, Electromatic, instruments, cigar light. From right: fog light, heater, defroster, map light.

Presume Packard used the downmarket spelling merely to fit on the switch tabs, as a company advertising in National Geographic, the New Yorker, and Literary Digest knew better.

My heater and defroster switches are immovable, suggesting they are dummies, so will await concurrence from any other 1941-47 Clipper owners whose cars left the factory sans heater.

Other than what's on my Vehicle Registry profile here, that's the story, gentlemen.

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Moody, listen to Packard Don. The Search box will furnish every last drop of information. BTW, the zinc/ZDDP nonsense has long since been debunked; visit the Search box. Kendall Conoco Phillips and other engineers themselves owning flat cam engines with vastly higher valve spring pressures than our old inline lawn mower engines explained.

Kev knocked himself out setting up the most user friendly, comprehensive marque site imaginable, and people don't bother to use it.

We all have specific queries now and then and there are some knowledgeable gents here for those, but really, most of the questions posted have been answered, as Packard Don points out, hundreds of times. Literally.

And many of those questions are basic internal combustion engine queries -- hardly Packard specific -- that Googling and YouTube have explained to death with EZ cartoons, et al.

We live in a nation where people want to push buttons, no longer read anything not available via a mouse. There's a staggering amount of comprehensive information in the Literature Archive alone; third link below Main Menu on the left of this well-organized site's homepage.

BTW, i'm not the only one who visits this site simply because there are treble, even quadruple, the number of people in this country as when our Packards were built, and the single drivable day of the entire year for us other than 6am weekends is Stupor Bowl Sunday, so PI gives us an autoholic fix.

Perfect as is. Don't change a single thing but the oil, coolant, grease.

This wonderful organ ducting Steve steered me to fits so snugly, you don't even need clamps. Again, all it's doing is directing fresh air.

The 1941-47 Clipper Fresh Air Option Howard pictured page one of this thread suggests the door or valve in the passenger side firewall duct adapter is open or closed by a "small lever on the instrument board." My car was shipped from Detroit with no heater, the Packard dealer selling my car new July 18th, 1947, Virgil Negranti Packard-Cummins Diesel-White Trucks Sales and Service, 565 Higuera Street, San Luis Obispo, CA adding a South Wind heater, so it uses that "Airflo" tab lever, out for open, in closed.

The 1941-47 Clipper Fresh Air Option duct originally went along the side of the engine bay. Since my Master Lube device providing full oil pressure before starting the engine hangs in the way, I ordered my ducting a foot longer than the requisite four feet (check yours before ordering) since it's a little tight going between the Master Lube device and my throttle spring, so it passes under, as you see in the attached photo.

BTW, shortly after buying my Packard, i removed the South Wind heater as i didn't like the idea of even a trace of gasoline coming into the cabin. A supercharged '37 Cord Phaeton owning friend had one, said they were nice because you got instant heat.

Many premium cars in the day were shipped sans heater, esp. those delivered in more moderate climes.

This entire episode as I tired of seeing the pair of unused duct adapters, tho' closing the aforementioned valve/door/flapper keeps engine fumes out of the cabin, esp. when stuffed with a rag. But thought it'd be nice to have fresh air without opening the cowl vent at the base of the windshield.

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Steve/58L8134, thank you, sir. Not only does Organ Supply Industries have the Right Stuff, but it is more durable, stronger than the original, and for less than half the cost a major Packard vendor in the Midwest wanted.

Those needing this material in any length, in 2-, 2 1/2-, 3-, 4, 5-inch diameter, contact Lisa Kitcey, OSI Customer Service, 800-374-3674, lisak@organsupply.com
2320 West 50th Street
Erie, PA 16506-4928
(814) 835-2244

You'll want their "Flexaust," per below:
https://www.organsupply.com/assets/CatalogPDFs/2014/Wind-Conductors-Revision.pdf

Thanks again, Steve. Something swell about a fine old car fitted with the same ducting used in church, concert, cathedral organs. E. Power Biggs and Bach devotee Dr. Schweitzer, the latter restoring organs when not treating ailing natives, would approve.

The hitch(es) above are that unless your car exposed to a hard freeze--two consecutive nights 30 or below -- or has air conditioning even in Phoenix in August, avoid antifreeze like the plague.

And according to an article by a Chrysler engineer member of the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Club in their newsletter some years ago, soluble oil is a long outmoded, inadvisable practice, like antifreeze leaving heat transfer inhibiting film on cooling system passages. Neither do you require "water pump lubricant." As a patent-generating industrial chemist friend who worked on cars when young pointed out, "water itself is a good lubricant," in such situation.

You're best served by using reverse osmosis water (read the label, do not buy unless you see that phrase), which is also available for 49 cents a gallon at any Whole Foods, with a good rust/corrosion inhibitor. I like No-Rosion Coolant Corrosion Inhibitor, originally produced to protect titanically expensive industrial cooling towers from their internal hellish conditions, but Red Line's Water Wetter is also good. For all the info you need on cooling system preservation, see the tech info link on www.no-rosion.com

As No-Rosion explains, never use distilled water.

There's a wealth of information on your car, Mike, via the provided search box on the upper right corner of this site's homepage, as well as the provided Literature Archive and Factory Service Index tabs under Main Menu to the left.

There are several sources of inexpensive reproductions of your '37's shop manual, the most important automotive book you can have.

As a longtime friend who's owned 70+ Packards, junior and senior, since he in high school, i upon trike, reminds, the goal should always be "factory standard."

Packard never built a better car at any price than your One Twenty.

Absolutely. You don't want that bushing running dry, since wear can affect your ignition. Think of the engineer even in the "modern" steam era of the '30s, '40s, into the '50s with his long-necked can "oiling around" the sighing locomotive during a station stop, even those with roller bearings throughout the axles and motion most of which fed by a Bijur-like system.

Palmer. Wasn't that Michael Caine's character in the Ipcress File?

HH56 right as rain as always. Too much oil on the ones he cautions can get on the brushes.

A machinist friend reminds us to use 20 or 30W nondetergent for such oiling duty. In fact, when he and our mutual auto/aero/mechanic/machinist/pilot friend replaced their compressors, they noted such suggested for them, and this was circa 1980.

For the distributor grease cup, we use the black molybdenum/graphite; StaLube, Texaco EP, etc. One of the Seven Sisters petrochemists years ago told us such grease a factor of eight-fold better than the orange fiber grease of the '40s through early '70s.

Had that stuff been around in the day, lotta Packards and other old cars'd still be on the road.

Zen and the Art of Packard Maintenance: Rather than a turn every 1,000 miles, give mine half a turn every 500. Overkill, of course.

I bow to all the above. However, flushing the system with inexpensive isopropyl alcohol available at any CVS, Rite Aid, etc. is hardly going to hurt anything, esp. since you're immediately after running compressed air through it.

Then you add the DOT 5. Regardless of brand, all made by Dow Corning w/ telltale lavender hue. I urge people to buy it and all else at any NAPA store, since they cater to old cars, have better stuff than the cheesy chains for the same and often less money.

Again, after all your work, why install something hydroscopic, absorbing moisture from the ambient air, the only reason you have to rebuild master and wheel cylinders?

Glycol brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4 (Girling) should be changed every few years. DOT 5 lasts forever, so the only parts you'll have to address the next couple centuries, given your mileage, are brake shoes. Eventually.

A friend has the same batch of DOT 5 in his '40 120, '40 180 Darrin, and '42 160 convertibles since the 1980s and it still looks new, as that in my '47 Super.

Remember, too, that part of a complete tune up in the day was to check head and manifold torque engine warm (given iron head). But don't overdo; some folks don't back off quickly enough when click heard.
And you want the manifold to be able to expand and contract.

Be thankful our 356 engines have one-piece manifold, not three-piece a la Buick 320 straight eight.