Hello everyone,

One of my rear shock links cracked on my 37 115 and broke, I thought it would be an easy fix, but when I took the top bolt off from the link it will not come out. I wonder it looks like the part that I got should just slide in but the old part will not come out even with taps from a rubber mallet. The axle is from a 1936 120, but I thought the Delco rear shocks and links where to a 115. Any thoughts from more experienced restorers?

It almost looks like a bolt was ran through the connection and perhaps the original connection was removed, or are the links on my 115 from another year?

I attached pictures.

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Hello,

Does anyone know of a person that reproduces the black Bakelite insulator that brings power into the distributor. Mine looks like it should be replaced. I couldn't find a replacement via Max anyone else know of a replacement option?

37 or 38 Delco for 115

Thanks

James

Thanks for the information from everyone

Hello,

Is there a difference besides model numbers for the Delco 1937 115 distributor vs the 1938 delco six distributor. I know that the model numbers that Delco gave them where different but besides that it looks like the points, condenser, and vacuum advance are interchangeable.

I just noticed that my 1937 115 which has had a 1938 engine in it still has the distributor model for a 1937 engine in it. Is it ok to interchange them as was done.

Thanks

James

Thanks I was going to use 3 people to get everything back together

Thanks for the advance. I thought it would be easy to remove or readjust the chrome strip but it will not move. Perhaps my grandfather used some bonding agent 23 years ago. At least I didn't make it any worse for wear. I will crimp the extra chrome piece over that should prevent the hood the siding to far forward which is part of the issue. Hopefully that will make it the best it can be.

I was thinking it would be easier to do adjustments with just the top two pieces of the hood on and then add the side parts of the hood and metal dowl rods once the top pieces are bolted down and lined up the best they can. Right now I separated them all to get a better idea of condition and fit.

Thanks again

James

Just checking if anyone with a 37 120 or 115 can take a couple of pictures and post them. A couple of pictures with the hood up showing the back hood bracket's position with respect to the chrome strip to see how that lines up correctly.

Thanks

James

Hello all,

I was checking on some advice for fixing a hood issue that was left after my grandfather restored a 115. When you open the hood there is a lot of left to right play in the hood. This makes it hard to close again without rubbing the paint on the sides as it closes. It looks like there is excess length of the chrome center strip that is longer than the underlying metal strip of hood by about 1/2" should that over lap be there or should the be removed. If removed the chrome and underlying metal strip would be about 1/2" shorter than the rest of the hood at that point. I am assuming the some the excess would be folded over to help support the bracket from siding off during install? I have attached pictures. The two top bracing rods under the hood are pushed as long as they go with the bolts by the radiator just barely on.

Does anyone get me a quick picture of there hood bracket area to compare?



Any help with ideas to get this to fit better would be helpful.

Thanks

James

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Hello everyone I was checking with a 160 degree thermostat what should the temperature be for the temperature gauge, during the summer mine is reading about 180 is that normal for those of you with a 115. Driving in outside temperatures been
70 and 90 degrees. I should add that I have a 38 six engine in this car that has the larger water pump.

The radiator had been recore with a copper 2 row core two years ago. Is that what others are using for the recore or was a 3 row core the way to go.

Thanks
James

My 115 steering wheel is in good shape as far as no cracks, but if it is humid out my steering wheel starts having a rub off of the steering wheel rubber material. The finish of the rest of the wheel inside forks and horn has a light shiny coating but where your hands go this is all dull and will rub off slightly on high humidity day driving.

Can I put a top layer of a polyurethane type product on the steering wheel to prevent this. Any suggestions would be helpful. I don't want it to be sticky. The steering wheel appears all original.

Thanks

James