Thank you for the replies. We're gonna take out the blank plug and drill a small hole in a new one and install it. Thanks again

Last pic

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I'm rebuilding my 282 and am on the final assembly. The oil galley that feeds the tappets has a plug at the end near the timing chain. A friend of mine, who is a reputable Packard engine rebuilder and has built many in his time told me that some of these plugs had a small or large hole and some didn't. He provided me with a plug, but do I use it or leave the solid plug in that I installed. Any information would be great as I am trying to figure out what's best to do to assemble my engine. Thank you

In the pictures I also provided one from a motors manual, which you can see a dark spot on the plug near the top. My friend told me the holes were always at the top of the galley

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Guscha, sorry for the mix up. Seems before when I searched for the dealership on this website nothing came up. I even looked at all of the dealerships in Iowa on here.

I can't view google maps on my phone for some reason, but I typed in the address that I got from the article.

Looks like the family had the dealership anywhere from the late 20's to the 80s according to what I saw on ancestry and the obituary. Thanks for the help

Anybody have any information on the Janson auto company in Webster city? My car was sold there new I believe. I was able to find this article online, but that's it so far. I also added it to the dealership list

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I'm not sure what acid they used. They told me no aluminum when I had the process done

Everything was stripped off the engine before I had it dipped. If I dipped the brass tube there may not be much of it left? I know the acid eats away at aluminum, not too sure about brass.

Everything has been cleaned and serviced to make it as close as possible to factory fresh.

I'm no too worried about the radiator being able to handle the pressure, but as I said the water pump was my main concern.


Doesnt really matter now anyways as I left it as is.

Yes, I do not anticipate to drive the car in that heat(summer afternoon 118 degrees), however if it happens I just want to be prepared.

I asked two close friends of mine who are both in the automotive field. Both know a lot about pre war cars in particular and they both recommended to at least see how it runs first, and if overheating issues do present themselves(which they shouldn't) to then take the action needed(whatever may be necessary).

So anyways after reading suggestions on here, and taking friends advice I decided to leave the cooling system stock. I had the radiator re-cored before I tackled the engine build, but I did run the engine with the radiator. Taking all precautions necessary I dropped it off yesterday to have it flushed and flow tested, along with the heater core as it leaked. This will ensure that the cooling system is working at 100%. Every component of the cooling system has been gone through(radiator twice haha) and as I said the block was acid dipped so all of the corrosion was removed, therefore it should run as cool as if the car were brand new, if not cooler(upgraded radiator core).

12 lbs seems like a lot to me for a car of that vintage. I was going to do 4 lbs, perhaps a max of 7. The packing material in the water pump held up well with that much pressure?

Thank you to everyone for all the suggestions and I look forward to hopefully having this car on the road soon!

So, now a separate question, is it common for non pressurized cars to boil over when sitting in traffic? I live in inland southern California, we got temperatures as high as 118 this summer. That, in traffic, is what I'm worried about. That also is not a daily condition here but still

I'm trying to find some information about pressurized cooling systems.

1. What year did Packard go to a pressurized system?

2. Can I pressurize my system? I have a re-cored radiator and a new reproduction water pump, the main thing I'm worried about is the seal of the water pump. The main reason why I want to pressurize my system is for when the car is sitting in traffic.

3. Would I benefit from pressurizing my system based on the above information?

Also I'm in the process of fully rebuilding my engine, I had the block and head acid dipped so rust/corrosion causing an issue in the cooling system is not a factor

All responses appreciated, thank you very much.