Meters , fuel pressure gauges noid lights,timing lights, taps dies, reamers, drills, augers, tool catalogue drill size chart , tap size index, pipe taps -many from 1/4 to 1-1/2. 2 inch tapered pipe tap, valve spring tool etc. too much to list. Contact with requests
grey digital meter has ohm, DCv tach n dwell. black meter AC DCv DCa ohm.

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Carb 250 , oil bath 75, points plate 20

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Sure Joe. May I send you a pm? Busy now but I have looked at the schematic. I would have a fused 16 or 14 gauge jumper with alligator clips both ends-20or 30 a breaker or fuse and a test light to pull an amp regular clip on one end and probe on other. These can be made for pennies if not available.

Just a lil advice. Be careful with continuity test of wires with a digital volt ohm meter as there can be one strand of a multi strand wire intact with all others fletch broken or corroded. This will test “good” with the meter setup you are employing and not light a bulb or operate a solenoid! There may be other faults but I suspect if you do the same test with a 12 v bulb or proper automotive test light (not led) you will find a component or wire that will not flow enough current. BTW- do not use current draw test lights in modern computer controlled circuits in this fashion. Good luck. If you are unsure how to isolate a circuit and energize with test light - please say so and ask.
6v dry cell and 6 v bulb fine also.

??? Ha ha. Should I take them iPhone facing rt horizon ? Left horizon? Vert right side? Or upside down for them to properly be viewed ? Not sure how to “re position” .

55 carb 4gc for sale . Oil bath air cleaner inner 2 shells. Sorry no outer cover. Set of door edge guards stainless. Delhi points plate, trim clips .
I have some tools available also very reasonably priced. Tac n dwell , timing lights etc. can post pics if anyone is interested. Will photos load from I phone or android? Located in NY so east coast shipping will be more reasonable.
Well, attempt to add pics seem unsuccessful .

Was the speedo jumping wildly bouncing from way above your actual driving speed to almost zero while driving before it gave up the ghost? Was it doing this violently in rapid rhythm as to snap the needle off?
If so- I have heard others advise of cable problems or cable lube but I have seen speedo heads binding and causing the cable to wind up and build tension and release . It can even cause the cable to twist or snap. Others have said to try to lube the speedo oilet hole in place. Rust, dried grease and oil is common on speedos and odometers of this age. I will urge you to remove the speedo (or cluster assm which ever easier) and carefully CLEAN the back of the speedo and odometer. Pay special care to the odometer reduction gears with a tooth brush and wd40. Clean all dust,lint, old grease etc. do not stain the odometer numbers on the rolls. Clean all odometer pivot axle pins. Then oil with light oil. Test on bench. This is the only thing I found to help. Of course remove speedo cable and oil and grease also but I found this was not the root cause. The ones I saw were in the speedo. Good luck.

So the head is off now. You can continue to do this test multiple times over several days. I would do this with the oil drained from the pan with plug in. Topping off the water each day and rotating the crank by hand to set different cylinders to bottom of stroke. Each morn check what is in the lower cyl and what is in the pan. When you removed the head were all the piston tops black carbon covered? Were there any CLEAN ones? Since the head is dry on these you won't be looking for cracks in the head between the valves as is common. Check for cracks near head bolt threads to cyl. Check for cracks down low in cyl bores. Don't discount rust deterioration in these blocks . Any blocks this old can be rusted thin from the inside.

Info on rebuild. Worth a watch if interested.
https://youtu.be/9BXYUjLJPdc

In addition to all the great info mentioned, check and repair all vacuum leaks for hesitation . Check vac advance with a vacuum pump. Accl pump check ball seat must be clean/unpitted. Some may tap the ball gently on the seat during rebuild. There is a sensitive relationship between the depth of the plunger, the volume and size of the nozzle/nozzles, the cam stroke and even the float level. If the plunger is too high in the bore there will be a delay in spray causing dead spot. Recommend to check all this on the bench. If not removing all plugs and cleaning all passages at least remove jets and clean ,send wire through and spray through all with carb clean and tiny tube on spray can nozzle. Acc pump spray should come on right away. I used to adj cam and nozzle size till I saw black smoke out tailpipe on load with quick throttle movement then adj down from there. There is more but since carb is on and she runs it is all moot.