Hello again,

Thank you for your input and suggestions for resolving my dilemma! I have tried to put all of the info to good use. I’ve re-cleaned everything; made sure grounds are tight against clean/bare metal; rechecked continuity, etc. I replaced the circuit breakers on the instrument cluster. There are definitely improvements, but unfortunately, I’m still having one obvious issue. I still do NOT have a right rear turn signal.

The current improved situation is as follows:

1. With parking/head lights OFF, I have a properly functioning left turn signal front, rear and dash indicator light. Flashing is at a speed that I believe to be correct. Flasher is making an audible tic—-tic—-tic; not a rapid tictictic. The right front turn signal is flashing rapidly and there is no right rear turn signal at all. Flasher is emitting rapid, barely audible tictictic.

2. With parking/head lights ON, all tail lights function. The out-board left and right lights are slightly dimmer than the in-board. When left turn signal is initiated, the turn signal NOW functions as described in #1 above. Before, it did not function when parking/head lights were on. The right front turn signal flashes rapidly. There is NO right rear turn signal.

I took all of this one step further and checked the voltage coming through the line to the light bulb sockets. For the properly functioning left turn signal, at the rear connection, I’m getting a voltage reading that cycles between about 1.5Vdc and 3Vdc. It’s hard to be exact as it fluctuates constantly. I’m assuming this is due to the function of the flasher. For the right side, I’m only reading about 0.5Vdc with some fluctuation up to maybe 1Vdc. Voltage readings for the out-board/in-board tail lights is 4.8 and 5Vdc respectively. Ugh!

I’ve about resolved myself into having to use the old hand signals and or a right turn semaphore flag to signal my right turn intentions! Please advise your thoughts, if any, based on this updated status.

Thanks so much!

Good day!

Thanks for your replies HH56 and DP!

There are no added options such as a third brake light or trailer towing pigtail. Taillights illuminate with parking and headlights. I’ll double check if the brake lights illuminate properly as I did not do that at this point. All tail lights are the same brightness. One thing that I noticed this morning is that when taillights are illuminated and turn signals on, there is a VERY faint flicker in-time with the front parking lights as they flash.

I’m going to, once again, go back through all the connections checking for undesirable grounds/shorts, poor contact, etc. Based on the number of times I’ve gone through everything trying to figure this out, it is something very subtle.

Thanks for you input and experiences! I’ll keep looking.

54ocmac

Good day!

I’m seeking the forum’s help in deciphering a turn signal issue. In reading other similar posts, I suspect there is a ground or resistance issue, but I have a mixed bag of functionality so I’d like to ask for the view of this group of experts!

1. When head lights or parking lights are OFF, I have front turn signals on right and left. The left rear turn signal works, but not the right. Flashing ‘speed’ is faster than I would expect it to be, but is not as fast as if a bulb is out. Dash indicator lights both flash at the same time regardless of whither right or left indicator is selected. Dash indicator lights are very dim.

2. When head lights or just parking lights are ON, I have front turn signals, but NO rear turn signals on either side. Flashing ‘speed’ is slower than described in #1 above. Dash indicator lights function as described in #1 above. All other tail lights illuminate as expected.

I have checked all bulbs visually and functionally to make sure there are no broken filaments. I have cleaned sockets, contacts on wires and bulbs, the interface between the socket housing and the taillight opening and cleaned what I believe to be the ground connections for the rear lights. I have checked continuity and all circuits appear to be intact.

Your thoughts/opinions are appreciated.

Thanks much!

Mark

Good morning!

Thank you so much for the quick response! Such a wealth of information and help in this “community”!!

The website address for Pacific Northwest Packards is totally different than the one listed on the Old Ride site, hence the bounce-back I was getting.

I checked Merritt’s and they list the 2 different tools, but the listings state they are for 327’s. Am I to assume 327’s and 359’s the same?

Last, if the dimensions mentioned can be verified, it might be quicker to make than buy.

Thanks again for ALL the insight and help!

Mark

Good evening!

I’m in need of tool J-4540 and I have repeatedly tried to get to the website for Packards of the Northwest, but get bounce-back that server cannot be found. Can anyone advise an alternate way to reach them to find this tool or alternate source or even a drawing for the tool?

Thanks

Good morning and thanks EVERYONE for the replies! Will review all the options with my mechanic and advise the outcome!

Mark

Good evening and Happy Holidays to everyone!

Was searching the forum for posts/replies regarding replacing rear main seals. Found a thread regarding using a FelPro neoprene seal on a V8, I believe. I’m wondering if anyone has any info/experience regarding use of a neoprene alternate for the old rope seal on 1954’s 359CID.

Thanks!

Good morning! I’m looking for a new set of main bearings in 0.010”. My usual go-to sources (Kanter, Merritt, Terrill, Egge) don’t have or make in that dimension. Does anyone know of a source anyplace else that might have them? Found a set on eBay a couple of months back. They were not all in like-new condition, but we’re determined to be usable. Once installed and bearing caps torqued, when engine was manually cranked, we noticed engine was harder to crank than expected. Caps were removed and bottom half of bearings were inspected. Some show “witness marks” at various locations, i.e., where they meet opposite bearing half or in other areas of the bearing surface. Don’t really want to have the crank ground again to accommodate 0.020” bearings unless absolutely necessary. Any alternate source suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!1

Hello Ernie et al,

I have had a pressure check performed and there is a leak. I have tried to upload the video, but keep getting an error message and it won’t upload.

Also, my message earlier this morning was in response to Dave in response to a private message received.

I continue to cogitate over this dilemma!

Good morning and thank you for your follow-up message! Appreciate the clarification. When you don’t have the history behind a particular problem, for me, it becomes a question of whether the condition is a common one or is it because the previous owner(s) not take good care of the vehicle. Having searched for a thread regarding my original question and not finding anything, I was beginning to feel that I was just unlucky with the 2 blocks I have. And to invest in another at a cost nearly $3K is not a decision taken lightly - although I’m leaning in that direction. A cracked block that has already been repaired and is leaking again doesn’t give me the peace of mind that it won’t develop into a bigger problem down the road for me or whomever owns the car in the future! Cheers!