humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Remind us what transmission you have again? The R700 conversion?

Do you have the mechanical pump? If you slowly go from steady power to intermittent bursts, that sounds like it could match to how the mechanical pump delivers fuel. In that case, is your fuel filter clean? The ceramic filters don't really look dirty, they just need cleaned periodically. The fuel pump was designed to always try to deliver much more fuel than needed to prevent this situation.

What's your fuel level like when this happens? Full, or less than 1/2 a tank? Have you checked the fuel tank condition? (I don't remember if you did) Sometimes the internal fuel line in the tank gets a pinhole at the ½ or ¼ full point causing a variety of expected issues only at low fuel levels.

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe in the trunk area specifically they used a specific round speednut with a foam washer behind it for weatherproofing. Obviously you don't have to replicate this setup unless you are regularly exposing the car to torrential downpours with your most prized possessions in the trunk.

Marvin wrote:
Please excuse my ignorance. You mention overdrive, I have not yet had the pleasure of driving my 56 Patrician, but hopefully soon. I am assuming the H button on the push button selector is overdrive. If this is correct, do you push it at a stop position or while driving? And your dash pad looks great. Mine not so much. Is it original or a replacement?

HH56 wrote:
Which yellow wire are you referring to as not having power? If it is the one on the ballast resistor terminal where the orange wire from OD relay connects, that should have power whenever the key is in the right or run position. The wire is fed directly from the IGN terminal of the ign switch via a splice connection. One spliced wire goes to the resistor and the other spliced in wire to the fuse block for the instrument cluster and maybe a couple of other items.

If it is the yellow wire that went to the old relay TH SW terminal, that would be ground side with ground supplied thru the governor when car reaches speed. If the inline connectors are good that only leaves the kickdown sw and the governor itself as the issue.

In testing the yellow ground wire side, you should be able to put one voltmeter lead on ground, and use the other lead to check each side of every terminal and connector in the yellow wire string. As long as the governor contact is not closed and connected to ground and voltage from the orange wire is feeding thru the relay coil, voltage should be able to be measured at every connection point down to the governor. As soon as the governor supplies a ground thru its contacts then the voltage in the string will go away and relay would energize. If there is voltage on one side of something but not the other that item is the problem.

On the governor itself, make sure all the mounting screws are tight. One of those that holds the plastic bottom to the body must be making good contact with the metal strap on the plastic bottom. That screw and strap is what supplies ground to the contacts.

HH56 wrote:
Double check the wire colors but from one end of the ballast resistor there should be a green wire going to the solenoid and pink to the coil. Orange from OD and Yellow from ign sw would be at the other end.

It might also be a good idea to check the 4 pin plug and inline connector to make sure both are good.

The R11 relays are reproduced but are expensive. Several of the general vendors carry them, 5th Avenue Garage being one but a modern relay can be used by itself or some have said they gutted the old metal case and hid the new relay inside.

Using the old designations to new relay numbers, here is how terminals would connect.

IGN to 85
TH SW to 86
SOL to 87 Best would be a 4 terminal relay without 87a but if you use a 5 pin relay, 87a would be unused but would be hot when relay is relaxed. Make sure it cannot touch anything.
If gutting the old case the BAT thru fuse would connect to 30. If the new relay is standalone then you would need to add an inline fuseholder to replace the original fuse.