Looking for a nice pair of taillights for my 56 400. Mine are pitted, and I'm looking for a decent pair with nice chrome. I've looked into rechroming mine, but the reputable chrome shops in the area are backed up several months. I'm also looking for a gold trunk emblem circle that is in good shape. I have lots of 55-56 Packard parts, some used such as push button columns, trim, emblems, grill, etc, as well as some NOS parts, that I might be willing to trade for parts I'm needing.

I’m looking for some original Packard bottles/cans/jars to add to a display I’m making for my 1956 400. Does anyone have some they would like to sell? They don’t have to be full or perfect, since I’m just using them for a display. Most of the bottles and containers have “S P” for Studebaker Packard at the top.

I’m also looking for a factory touch up paint can in aqua or Dover white to add to the display. I’ve seen them for sale from time to time and am looking for these as well. I’m not wanting to use the paint, I’m just wanting to add it to the display. It doesn’t need to be full or perfect.

If anyone has any of these items for sale let me know! Thanks.

I took the carburetor off my 56 400 and noticed this screen under the carburetor gasket. Is this original, or has this been added? The engine runs fine with it, but not really sure what the purpose is?

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I have a question about changing out my Treadle Vac and replacing it with a dual master with power booster setup. I know this topic has been discussed many times in the past, but I want to be sure everything will work before I make the change. I personally don't have anything against a Treadle Vac when they are working, since mine stops decent. However, it is going on 20 years since the previous owner installed this one when the car was restored in 2002-2003, and I'm looking to change to something I can trust more since where I live has a lot of mountains to go up and down as well as a lot of traffic. I found a rear wheel cylinder leaking a few days ago, and want to change to a dual master and booster while I'm already redoing part of the brake system.

In one thread on here, I saw where someone used a dual diaphragm booster and a Volkswagen remote master cylinder and attached them with a fabricated an adapter plate join the booster and master cylinder.

Link to thread: Volkswagen Power Brake Setup


I also looked at Craig's Panther project before the site went down and saw how he used a remote fill master and a dual diaphragm booster. He also changed his pedal setup.

Link to Craig's site in Web Archive I found: Craig's Power Brake Conversion


I then researched some more and found a thread on an Oldsmobile website of a 55 Olds that had an original BTV unit installed in the same location as the Packard with a 1:1 ratio pedal. He did basically the same conversion that Craig did. He used a dual remote master cylinder, single diaphragm booster instead of dual booster. He converted to disc brakes on the front, but I would probably leave mine drum since it is not easy to change a Packard to discs. He also used a proportioning valve, but I don't think I'll need that either since I would be staying with drums. I might need to 10 lb pressure check valve, but I'm not sure. The guy with the Olds originally altered his factory brake pedal like Craig did, but he went back to the original pedal after not liking the setup of the pedal he made. He said it stops well even with the 1:1 ratio that the Olds has in common with the Packard.

Link to Olds brake thread: Oldsmobile Under Floor Power Brake Conversion


My car is a 56 400, so I don't think my brake pedal is the same as a 55 like Craig originally had. I'm thinking about following a similar process to what the Oldsmobile guy did. One question I had would be what I would need to do with the brake light/torsion level switch?

On another note, I saw where the VW master cylinder I referenced had the ability to use the factory switch. I researched and saw a dual VW master cylinder listed on eBay. Can this VW master be used with the original switch? It says it is a 3/4" bore instead of the 1" that Craig and the Olds person used. Would this be better or worse? Also could this dual VW master be used with a booster to adapt it to the plate in the floor of the Packard?

Link to VW master on eBay: Remote Dual VW Master Cylinder

Another VW Master: VW Dual Master Remote Fill


Does anyone have any suggestions, or has anyone completed any of conversions that are similar?

I'm looking at purchasing a set of wire wheels for my 56 400. I am wondering if anyone has used the wire wheels that Wheel Vintiques offers. These wheels are 5x5 bolt pattern. I'll probably order them and tires through Summit since they will mount and balance them. Also what size tires are most close to the originals? I'm thinking 235/75r15. Will this combination of wire wheels and this size whitewall tire fit behind the fender skirts?

Here is a link to wheels at Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wvi-70-5605358

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I took a look at the lever today. It is the 470038 part number one, so it must be off a 55. Which service counselor describes the rod length difference of 55 vs 56? Also, which rod is it?

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Is the one on the left the correct one for the 56? I think mine has the curve in it like that, but the angle of the picture makes it difficult to see. I'll look to make sure on Monday. If mine is not the correct one, would you be interested in selling the correct 56 one?

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What is the difference between the 55 lever and the 56 lever. The part number on the 55 lever looks to be 470038, and I see 6484069 on the bag in the picture.

In the link to the one I saw on ebay, there was a 56 lever listed as part number 6480732. To me, these levers look pretty much the same.

NOS 56 Ultramatic Outer Lever

1956 Packard Transmission Outer Lever


Here are the pictures of the ones I saw on ebay:

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I think everything was replaced when it was restored about 2003 or so. It's only been driven about 1500 miles or so since then. The bushings look decent.

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I think it seems to be in the electrical that Howard mentioned. It works perfectly going up. It did work fine going down until Wednesday. It seems like a loose connection to me. I have a lift, and I'll try to get it on there soon once I get the lift cleaned off.