Thanks Greg! I'll see if I can find that - I should have it if the wife didn't throw it out!

Another vote for POR-15, it's not super cheap but I've used it on several cars and the stuff seems really bulletproof.

Appreciate the input, I'll try and find them. My guy told me this tag was also a fake. It's on the rock solid survivor car that's for sale on the web now. Wish I had enough money to buy this car, really sharp time capsule '27 sedan.

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That's exactly what I was seeing. That blueprint shows the plate they started using in 1933 and that's when I start seeing the "I" instead of a "1". I was getting argued down about that and that the plate on a '29 should be brass. Technically they are, but they're nickel plated so a correct repro would be silver, not shiny brass. Showed him photos of this plate on a '29 640 I couldn't get bought, know this car to be original other than a bad yellow 1960s repaint, and he told me this tag was fake. This tag is definitely NOT a fake. Thanks much! Who reproduces these things??

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I don't have the "original" - therein lies my problem. My car is wearing apparently a very old reproduction or a later 1930's unstamped original that somebody stamped probably in the 1960s. The car was brush painted tan sometime in the early 1960s and put back on the road for a short time, I assume it was done then. She was parked for quite a long time before the restoration of 1999/2000.

On the plus side, the ID plate on the firewall does match the engine number, so, I suppose that's why they stamped that at least the way they did.

Much appreciated! And if you know of a source where an accurate reproduction can be had, do let me know. Not sure I'm keen on the shiny brass one I'm being told is "correct" as I'm not seeing any shiny brass ones on other 1929 cars, and not seeing any "I" shapes either.

Thanks much!

I'd been suspicious of my '29's firewall tag not being original since I bought it because it just looked too good, but, pics from 1999 before it was restored show the same tag - obviously, during the weird brush-painted "restoration" it got in the 1960s, somebody added a later 1930s repro or unstamped tag, stamped it themselves, and put that on there. So, the OCD part of me can't live with that and I must now have a repro correct firewall tag made.

The issue - the guy I contacted was insistent that Packard only used the letter "I" in place of the number "1" on the top line with the car's serial number on it. I have seen A LOT of unrestored Packards going back to the teens and twenties and thirties that have the numeral "1" stamped in them and I have seen the "I" as well, but usually on 1933 and later cars. Also, have usually seen silver tags on the cars, he insists it should be brass - I have seen brass, but more often than not, silver.

So, any input on this would be appreciated. I've always thought these were punched by the recieving dealership, so how could there be "absolutes" with these things? Thanks much!

I've got a 00 gauge cable on my '29 - seems to work pretty well.

The wheel locks on my '29 633 are definitely smaller than the ones shown in the photos by Gary and their backside is entirely different. Mine are not keyed to match the passenger's door and I had no keys for them when I got the car. Much to my surprise, the locks themselves were pretty much shot and I opened them with a small screwdriver but couldn't get them to lock back again. One of the locks has imcomplete guts to make matters worse. Brought them to two local locksmiths, they won't attempt to rebuid or re-key the wheel locks, so, they've been off the car ever since!

It's ridiculous, you can't get anybody to work on anything old anymore.

After 14 months, the new Firestone 7.00-20 blackwalls for my '29 have arrived. The car is currently wearing a set of the same size repro Goodrich Silvertowns that were put on back in 1999 when they started the resto and they're hard as a brick, aside from being technically incorrect for the car. I've changed the tubes in two of them already from being in Louisiana and picking up roofing nails, so will be putting the new ones on with my spoons and screwdriver in my own carport.

Big question! I've used balancing beads in the past in some of my antique cars but it has been a LOOOONG time ago! I really don't think there is any kind of balancing done on the tires currently on the car, no weights seen, and as I said, I changed the tubes in two, and it doesn't vibrate or shake at all, have had it up to 65, regular cruising speed is 45-50. So have you guys used the balance beads inside tube tires before and if so, does anybody have a particular favorite brand? Anybody noticed a major difference with them? I'm hoping to only have to do this once so I don't want to mess with unmounting them again!

The Firestones are a little bit "puffier" than the Silvertowns, they have a slightly bigger footprint (half an inch), but they just have a more rounded profile and look better on these cars - just want them to roll good too and not shimmy and shake!

NO tire stores down here, not even the truck stores, will even look at my snap-ring wheels, they act like they're staring at the eyes of the devil, but these guys are thinking of the old multi-piece truck wheels that were genuinely "split rim" wheels rather than "snap ring" wheels. I worked on a lot of big car restorations back in the late seventies and early eighties, we did these tires all the time ourselves and once that ring is snapped into place, it IS NOT coming off. All that's said simply to say no shop is going to help me with this, so I have to do it all myself. So, which beads to use? Anybody got suggestions as to how many ounces of beads per tire 7.00x20s, tubes, flaps, wire wheels. Any advice before I start messing about with this is appreciated, it's hot down here and this is a miserable job, don't want to have to do it twice! Thanks!