Tim, thank you for your explanation of the differences between 6th and 14th series std 8 engines. It certainly does seem there are a lot of differences and not worth pursuing interchaging parts of the motor. Is there anything that can be done to the 6th series std 8 to increase the HP or should it be rebuilt to standard? Maybe the best way for me to go is to use the complete 14th series motor (and try to find a 14th transmission if the 6th series tranny wont bolt on)and modify the engine mounts to suit the chassis. This way I get a later motor with more HP and still looking 'vintage'.

Dan, that twin carb and straight exhaust namifold looks great. What engine is it on, and has it been running? Love to know more about it and the car it is in. Cheers Mal

All of this discussion is great. Nice manifold Dan.

Tim, twice now you have simply stated it isn't going to happen or won't work. Can you please explain. You obviously know something significant about these engines so please share. Cheers Mal

O-D, thanks for your comments. For more background, I don't plan to race this but would like to have lively performance which I am sure the higher HP 1936 egine would give on the 626 chassis with lightweight speedster style body. I also plan to use an oftermarket overdrive to keep the revs down at highway driving. I do wonder if fitting the 1936 block/head with the down-draft manifold to the 1929 crackcase (for engine mount positions)and new poured babbit bearings would be a good way to go. This way the engine looks original but with higher compression and better breathing. Would need more information on the differences in lubrication and routing of oil channels and tubing as I believe there were some changes between these years.
Tim, what do you mean by "not going to happen"?

Thanks for your responses. Owen-Dyneto, thanks for the parts interchange list and the compression figures. Do you think most of the HP increase between 1929 and 1936 was the increased compression ratio? Maybe I should just use the head from the 1936 engine on the 1929? My concern would be that this might put too much strain on the poured babbit bearings. Another thought re the engine mount differences - could I use the crankcase from the 1929 with the wide engine mounts and fit the block and head from the 1936? I could modify the bearings and rods to take shell bearings. Once again, please keep your thoughts coming. Cheers Mal

Hi guys, I know there are many knowledgeable people out there who can comment on my question. I have. 1929 626 standard 8 engine that has not been run for many years. It is complete but most likely needs to be rebuilt. I have the chance to buy a 1936 std 8 which also needs to be rebuilt. The problem with the 1936 std 8 is the engine mounts are different and I don't know if the 1929 transmission will bolt on. The 1929 std 8 is 90HP and the 1936 std 8 is 130HP. As I plan to build a speedster body on my 1929 626 chassis, I wonder if I can rebuild the 1929 engine and do upgrades to increase the HP to 130. What differences were made between 1929 and 1936 to increase HP from 90 to 130? Your comments are al welcome.
Cheers Malcolm (New Zealand)

I have a 1936 120B convertible coupe. Replace all suspension bushes, I did mine in nolathane rather than rubber, have your coil springs reset to factory specs, and have the shocks rebuilt. You will then have a car that rides and drives beautifully, certainly as good as any 50-60s car. I have driven my car 450 miles on one day with only two stops and it was a great and comfortable drive.
The independent front suspension on these 35-37 120s and 110s is superb and some other manufacturers copied it because it was so good. Seriously, rebuilt your front suspension as it came from the factory and you will be very happy with the ride.
Cheers Mal (New Zealand)

Just to throw in my experience. I have had my original 120B water pump machined and a ceramic seal fitted. Quite a number of other Packard owners in NZ have done the same and no problems and no leaks. The ceramic seal should last tens of thousands of miles and it can easily be replaced should it cause problems. Any good engineering shop should be able to do this. Cheers Mal from NZ

Hi Dave,

I have recently purchased and fitted a Pazon Ignition Booster to my 1936 120B Conv coupe. This device is made in New Zealand and exported to the USA. It is available for Pos or Neg earth and runs on 6v or 12v. It is about half the size of a pack of cigarettes so easy to hide out of the way. The beauty is that you still use your points but they only run milliamps through them so do not burn, and the gap is no longer critical. The condensor can be left in position or removed, although Pazon recommend to remove it with the Pos earth unit. Should the unit ever fail (it has a 7.5 year warranty), you simply reinstall the condensor and you are away again.This unit is cheaper than an Ignitor and works with any 6V or 12V system, and you can order either Pos or Neg earth modules. I feel the spark is better, the car starts quicker and I don't have to worry about burnt points when the condensor goes weak.
Here is a link to Pazon's website:
http://www.pazon.com/ignition/energy-booster-ignitions/
Cheers Mal from NZ

Hi Jay,
In all of my fuel tanks, I have taken out the pick up tube and soldered a brass mesh filter to it. I make up the filter from brass mesh by rolling around 1 inch diameter tube and cutting to about 2 inches long. I then solder along the join. Then cut 2x 1 inch diameter pieces of mesh. Fit 1 to one end and solder around the edges. On the other 1 inch disc, cut 3 small slots across the centre so you can pull up to create a hole the diameter of the fuel pickup tube. Then fit this piece to the other end of the mesh filter and solder around the edge. You now have a brass mesh filter tube approx' 1 inch in diameter and approx' 2 inches long. These measurements are not critical but this size gives a good surface area for the fuel to get through but no crap. Next thoroughly clean the pick up tube back to shiny metal. Cut the bottom of the pickup tube to 45 degree angle and then slide in through the opening in the top of the mesh filter. The centre pieces that you pulled up now give you something to solder to the pick up tube. I made sure the pick up tube was right to the bottom of the filter - the 45 degree angle ensures fuel can always get into the pickup tube. This brass mesh filter on the bottom of the pick up tube stops rust and flakes getting into the fuel line. As mentioned by others, you will need to properly clean out the tank at some time soon, but you can do this little job in an hour or two. It will be added piece of mind even after the tank is cleaned.
Cheers NZ Mal

Having looked further through this wonderful database of posts that is PackardInfo, I have found numerous references to the stabilizer. It seems that Steele do a repro for the 1935-37 and the one with ball joints is for the 1938-39. It seems the ball joint snubber is better so I will try to locate one. I have had my car 10 years and there was never one fitted when I got it.
Cheers Mal