maybe this Scan_0001.jpg can help

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About 6 years ago I had Grill bars and top and bottom parts done there. The back of the center bar looked as if will rust. All the bars were notched with a cut off wheel leaving some with about off 1/4 inch of the tab left. Why didn't they drill them with a very small hole, to hang them with the wire for plating? It is my understanding that it is now run by the son of the original platter, who does mostly commercial plating. Very detailed parts are sent to another phily platter to finish.

I would use Librandi's Plating 717-944-9442 in Harrisburg,Pa. very close to the air port complex. I had my conv.windshield frame done there and had one spot one the back of the vertical post that looked as it might lift later,so I took it back and there was no argument,they just redid it and sent it to me no extra charge.

Since 1955 I have never seen any 37 120 with a wood grain dash background or any restored 37 120 finished that way. My late Close friend Dick Phillips had his 37 120 from the 1950,S and was very knowledgeable(He wrote the JR 35-41 section of the Automotive Quarterly Packard book). His had dark brown background dash. He was a person who wanted his car as it was originally made only. I think people are talking about the dash panels and I am talking about the dash background that they are bolted into. the dash panels(the one the speedo was bolted to,the center panel where the 4 gauges are and the glove box door with clock or no clock) were wood grained on both 115C and 120C.

The correct backround dash color of the 37JR cars is a deep brown, sometimes mistaken for black,yes its that dark. Many restored cars paint that area, the car color, but that is not correct original, for that area. The steering column(mast Jacket) is also painted the same and if its a 115c, the gear shift lever as well.

The Exhaust side(Right Hand)is now on sale on ebay by John Ulrich (pack120fan)for under $40.00 Phone 510-223-9587 or web JULRICHPACKARD.COM or email JULRICH2847@ATT.NET

I was told,when I was going to install a Scott 6 volt Fan,that you need to use an alternator, as the generators cannot supply enough current, for a long period of time. Good luck with your install. Its great, to not have to worry about over heating in any situation.

If you are still trying to get your car running good, try a new distributor ground lead, as this can cut your engine out everytime the breaker plate moves from advance to retard as the engine accelerates. New leads are scarce to find,they are made up of an extremely fine soft stranded copper wire(for flexing)

Here are two photos that may help you get it done. One from under the dash looking up on the drivers side at the harness holder or guide and another looking down at the drivers side harness holder or guide.

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To R. Howe
I measured the inner, upper cable length and it measures 62&1/2 from the threaded end to the bottom of the link(not to the pin hole where it connects to the hand brake lever). The outer housing is 28&3/4" long. Hope this is some help. I had the reverse of what you have, because I was sold a lower 120C cable instead. They were to short and I couldn't put the pin in one side.

You will have to remove the pitman arm from the steering box sector ,then take the cover off and pull up the sector and remove a shim or two under the sector. Then reassemble and test the play in the center or high spot of the steering wheel travel. Its a good time to put a new seal at the pitman arm side. It is a bit of a time consuming job. There may be a better way to figure out how thick of a shim to remove, but I don't know of it,maybe someone else does.