Ok,

The closest picture illustration I can only see a part of the run and it shows a hose coming out of the top of the heater box to the pump as your picture illustration shows also.

But the schematic illustration shows that hose coming out from the top box down to the under seat core, in this way of routing I believe the routing would be?

Out from top head to inner thermostatic control.

Out from outer thermostatic control to bottom heater box.

Out from top heater box down to rear connection on under seat core.

Out from front connection on under seat core up to water pump.

Although I don't see a circulation for the engine if the thermostatic control heat is off?
And again this is the schematic illustration.

Here is the picture illustration

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Can anyone please help with my heater hose assembly.

It has been awhile and my original diagram i drew is lost.

I drew a new one of what I think but it looks wrong.

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Thank you JW
I will look into Napa in the morning..

Thank you Howard I will check them out tomorrow and yes I have downloaded the wire diagram along with the size chart.
I printed them out and have them taped to the inside windshield facing outward.
It is a great reference chart to be able to pull up but, wires have changed since.

This is what I've did today.

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At the head lights I have the cloth but the supply wires to the head light junction block are coated like a normal wire.

10' feet of each is fine but I guess more of my question is wire insulation? Does 6 volt have a different insulation?
Wether it's thickness or cca, PVC coated I believe 12v can get away with that 6v can not.

I'd love to get her started safely before I do another extended stay in the heart hospital.
I maybe over thinking it but, would like to have no melt downs.

And thank you all for the advice!!!😁

This is what I did so far.

Note;
That switch will change and the bracket will too, till I can make a custom bracket.

Also the black wire shrinks will be covered with red ones once I get them.

That is until I find the file.

Thank you great help with the model number as I ran across the different extension numbers after the main component number.

I will order the best suited for my needs after the great advice.

I already spent my day making my cables for a incompartment on the Positive ground cable near the battery box eliminating any long distance in cables.

Switches are not too badly priced i just may add a second switch on the black Negitive side and run a homemade mechanical on/off shaft to operate inside the car.
This way I will have one inside and one under the hood.

I also needed to extend my wires on the regulator as these.

Brown and Tan 10G

Blue 16g
And a couple Reds 10g
Where can I get a couple feet of each, or yet which is safe to use if it not AWG?

I actually bought it at the beginning of this year, after googling it I found it is a 12 volt High capacity 300amp.
I just may go ahead and pick up what you had referred to me.
Is this in that direction?
https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-2484-Disconnect-Contacts/dp/B001FQMZS8

Yes if I went with a inside dash mount it would have to be trans bolt mounted in that area.

I'm not too thrilled on the distance of cable but if I did that, I would change to 3/0 or 4/0 Red positive cable.

Would the black Negitive cable have to match the 3/0 or 4/0 of a red Positive if I changed or can I keep the black Negitive cable at the 1/0?

Thank you.
I had read many of blogs and there are many different thoughts but, mostly on the 12 volt systems.

The racing switch I purchased is rated for 300 amps but has 5/16" "brass posts" will the brass be a problem?

I did purchase enough black cable to run it inside the car and back to the battery as my first thought of doing it although I can change that around.