In addition to the old sunglasses, old pennies, one shoe, comb, and nail clippers, I now found, underneath the dashboard, a botal of phenobarbital from 8 OOC 68.

Who would've thought drug use was high in the 60's?

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And here's the rear fender work...

I think there may be filler from previous work around the wheel well.

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Great eye!!! I had to go back to the manual and part to double check. I believe both the cup and spring are AWOL. Is it possible these parts were made of a material that could completely disintegrate?

In case there's any concern that I don't have Attention Deficit Disorder, I'm also including pictures of the Easamatic Brake Booster that I'm working on rebuilding.

I'm going to have to take the brake fluid reservoir to the local speed shop to see if they can get the stuck compensator valve out. I'll have them clean up the other metal parts while at it.

I think it's pretty cool that this was made by Bendix in my hometown of South Bend, IN. Growing up, many of friends had parents with employment at Bendix as did my Mother and Grandfather.

The only casualties I've seen during the disassembly have been the front piston plate spring and the master cylinder piston cup washer retaining ring.

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Oh, also painted the hubcaps (by hand).

The only question I had from last post is whether anyone knows of other sources of interior pieces versus me having the local shop manufacture them by hand (and stitching versus heat press).

I guess the only other thing I can say for today is THANK GOD THE COLLEGE FOOTBALL SEASON HAS STARTED!

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Long message lost in cyberspace. Summation follows.

Busy summer, solved electrical issue, got engine to fire in a beautiful cloud of blue smoke, did not achieve idle, began work on exterior (stripping primer, original paint underneath, and original primer underneath that. Worked on the interior; disassembled the front seat to the bare frame. Need to weld two parts. Discovered seat constructed of frame and spring, topped with burlap reinforced with wire, topped with cotton, topped with petrified latex (picture below), covered by more cotton then mousseline fabric and, finally, the original seat material. Got replacement materials for from seat from Al Knoch, a local interior specialist that specializes in Corvettes and Camaros.

Took the driver side rear interior door panel to Al Knoch interiors. He can custom reproduce but will be in stitching rather than heat pressing of the original. Cool thing, discovered what I thought was an overly simple panel covering was actually interior covering (similar to the seat covers I took off previously) and that the original interior was underneath. Pictures below.

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The car came with four full wheel covers which was why I was surprised that three of them had the clips under them. I assumed the majority ruled the stock state but I guess it's possible over the course of 56 years for three of the wheels to have been replaced.

My full wheel covers do need to be repainted through. Only the black hexagon remains. I've been thinking about making a template to cover the lettering in order to paint the red portion. How did you do it? Did you use a brush instead of a spray can or did you cover the script lettering?

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After painting. I only painted the front side. While media blasting, it appeared that neither the back nor insides were previsouly painted. Was this how they normally left the factory?

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After Media Blasting.

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I continue to work various projects simultaneously. While awaiting engine and transmission oil pan gaskets, I worked on two of the rims by media blasting them and then primering and painting them.

Since my car only had four wheels (no spare) I assume the wheel without the hubcap clips is the spare so I'm going to order a fifth wheel with clips. When talking with Max Merritt, they asked whether I had 11" or 12" drums. Mine were the 12" drums but I was wondering if anyone knew what the difference was (besides an inch).:) Did the easamatic cars come with standard 12" drums or was this more of a Standard vs Deluxe/Super issue.

Pix below. Even after paint, the one rim that was badly pitted doesn't look great. A local shop recommended I use body filler to smooth it out but all I could imagine was the filler causing a huge imbalance that would require multiple weights to balance.

Also, another shop was unsure whether the tires would bead on the post-media blasted rim and recommended I use tubes with the tubeless tires. Has anyone done this? Any issues?

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