Ozstatman - thanks for the response.

HH - Thanks for the info. I see a split in the photo at the top end bracket and assume that's what you're talking about. I'll check mine.

Thanks for the info on the process of lubricating. Sounds like a good weekend job in the fall.

Joe - my Packard is a year older than me. I can relate to the stiffness.

I've tried moving it both while rolling and at rest. It seems to be pretty stiff either way.

Thanks for your comments.

Ever since the engine on my 50 Deluxe 8 was recently rebuilt, it seems to be running hotter than I remember it running before. I realize there are contributing factors, namely the recent rebuild - everything fits tighter, the fact that it was bored out to .030 over - it now has a larger compression chamber, and that the supplemental gauges I added may not be accurate - but I digress.

The real question is about the effect of the engine heat on the carburetor and the glass fuel filter bowl. I have observed bubbling in the glass bowl. Dare I say it looks like the gas is boiling. Is that common? Or is it really some other phenomenon taking place that is making the gas bubble? If that is possible that the gas is actually boiling, has Packard ever had some kind of heat shield under the carburetor and fuel filter bowl? I suppose that would only make a difference if the heat was primarily coming from the exhaust manifold, rather than the entire engine compartment being just as hot as the area immediately around the carburetor.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

My 50 Deluxe 8 was in semi-hibernation for the better part of the last 2-3 years while it was getting new upholstery, a new paint job, then an unexpected engine rebuild. Until the rebuild, it would be moved in and out of the shops under its own power pretty much on a daily basis. Soon after the engine rebuild, it was taken out on the highway for a 2-hour drive on the highway and overdrive was used for the first time in a long time. I was thrilled to find that the overdrive worked, but found that it was extremely difficult to move the control knob in and out. Is it possible to lubricate the cable or is it more likely something else is causing the problem? I will say that it engages/disengages a little easier now than the first time or two I tried it, but it is still pretty stiff. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I have decided to install a small step-up converter to run the 12v lights on two supplemental gauges I am currently using, as well as the monitor for a 12v backup camera I am adding (I'm not ready to take on a 12v conversional at this time). The wiring diagram is pretty simple, ie neg and pos leads to the battery and neg and pos leads to the 12v load. No special steps are given concerning the change from positive ground negative ground. Is that change addressed internally in the converter or is there something I need to do to account for that change in grounding during installation? As always, thanks for any and all comments.

Many thanks.

Hold the phone! So glad I hit a snag before even getting started on removing the steering column/shifter shaft. Using bits and pieces from the discussion thread, I decided to give breaking loose the lever from the shaft - while still in the car - one more try.

Vice grips - gently applied to the shifter shaft and upper shift lever were the key, but there is no discounting the various fluids applied at the top of the upper lever. I used PB Blaster first, then lacquer thinner, then a concoction of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I couldn't tell you which one did the trick, but no amount of tapping up on the lower edge of the lever had any effect whatsoever. Probably a combination of too much give using a hammer and wooden dowel and a bad angle for the dowel.

But as soon as I applied the vice grips, the lever and shaft started moving independently - just a minute amount at first - then a little more and a little more as I kept working the vice grips. As the amount of rotational movement increased, I was able to begin to move the lever up and down the shaft as well. Each time the movement exposed some ancient crud, I removed it with Q-tips and lacquer thinner. Good stuff! Eventually the lever moved freely around the shaft as well as up and down - as freely and easily as it ever did before.

Before I button up the shaft and levers and get ready to take my Packard back on the road, I have one more question. What would be the best treatment for the exposed selector and interior surfaces of the levers - as well as lubrication for the upper lever going forward? Would the answer be as simple as coat all of the interior surfaces with 3 in 1 oil or would anti-seize lubrication be better? What about the concoction of transmission fluid and acetone? I haven't drilled the hole in the upper lever housing yet, but I think it would come in pretty handy for future lubrication needs.

Much thanks to everyone who took the time to help me through the process. I never could have done it alone.

Wes and HH56 - I have resigned myself to the removal of the shifter shaft and the steering column, but already hit a snag on just removing the steering wheel. I appreciated the YouTube video, but my '50 steering column looks quite a bit different than the '47. I don't see any screws exposed and definitely don't want to start prying on anything unless I know for sure prying is required. I've also looked ahead at removing the shroud over steering and gear shift columns and haven't solved that puzzle either. Removing the wiper knob, the turn signal arm and the gear shift was the easy part, but it looks as if the only way is for it to slide down the column once it's released either from under the steering wheel or the clamp halfway down the column - or maybe both. Any direction you can give me on the steering column and shroud is appreciated.

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JoeSantana, thanks for the input. I disconnected the linkages to the shaft levers and moved the lower linkages to the transmission levers back and forth. Both moved freely. With the upper linkage to the Direct & 2nd lever disconnected (and with R - 1st connected), shifting to R and 1st was also smooth and easy. It was only when trying to move the (disconnected) Direct/2nd lever freely on the shaft that I ran into great resistance. They were/are locked tightly together. I was actually relieved to find that the problem was apparently not in the transmission or transmission levers.