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Board index » All Posts (elwoodp44)




Re: disc brake conversions
#21
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
Thanks for the info...the area beside the oil pan where the original master cylinder resides is tight...but in the worst case I'd modify the frame a bit...(saving the pieces so the next owner could restore it to original, if she wants to).

Don't tell anyone, but I'm using a GM 700-R4 trans behind my 356 engine...eliminating lots of linkage.

I'll look at the link you've provided and see what's what.

Mike

Posted on: 2012/12/13 10:07
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Re: disc brake conversions
#22
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I saw no master cylinder kit in the Kanter catalog. I'm debating on exactly what to do. A dual-diaphragm small diameter master cylinder might fit in the general area of the original master cylinder and that's what I'll try first. I'd like to avoid converting to pendulum pedals just to preserve the original 'look'.

M

Posted on: 2012/12/12 9:36
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Re: disc brake conversions
#23
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
The installation was simple and straight-forward. In my previous posts I noted that some holes didn't line up and that the disc brake conversion was Lug-Centric and not Hub-Centric as on the original.

Also, the lug studs on the new kit are 1/2" while the original bolts are 9/16". I got no info from Kanter about this situation, nor have I received any info about what brake pads are used in this kit. (This info would be useful when it comes time to put new pads on the car.)

The 1/2" studs seem to locate the wheels just fine but I installed an aluminum ring on the rotor to properly locate the wheel just in case.

You might ask Kanter about these points when you are purchasing the kit.

M.

Posted on: 2012/7/17 10:34
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Re: 288 stuck valves
#24
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
If the valve clearances are still correct it is hard to imagine that the valves would be responsible for the no-compression situation. Sitting for 5 years undoubtedly had something to do with this if the engine was running properly when it was put into storage.

Possibly a valve in each of these cylinders was open during the storage period...and either the valve face or seat face corroded. Anyway, if squirting some oil or ATF into each cylinder through the spark plug hole doesn't restore the compression then the head will have to come off.

Please let us know what you find and how you fixed the problem.

Posted on: 2012/7/17 10:21
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Re: Charging problem solved? Loose ammeter wire(s).
#25
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
Thank you so much for this post...seemingly little things like this can act like major mystery problems.

Mike

Posted on: 2012/6/12 19:29
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Re: Headliner material
#26
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
Do moths eat cotton? My '48 Custom 8 headliner has moth holes in it for sure.

M

Posted on: 2012/6/2 17:22
 Top 


Re: disc brake conversions
#27
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I am using the calipers included in the kit from Kanter...and I don't know where they originated or whose disc pads are used with them...I will use my Car Quest contact in the near future and see if he can match the pads up with some standard issue. Kanter has so far been silent regarding my inquiries on this subject.

Your installation looks great. The Kanter kit also retains the stock spindle with a bearing I.D. spacer sleeve for the inner bearing.

M.

Posted on: 2012/5/21 14:47
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Re: disc brake conversions
#28
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I'll take a look at those inside corners...I think they have a slight radius but I'll make sure. When I was a young Test Engineer for Pratt and Whitney I was given the task of determining why an Exhaust Nozzle Control heat shield was cracking...well...it was obvious even to me as a new engineer that there was NO radius on an inside corner...none called out on the drawing and none on the part. It cracked!!

Later in life my neighbor said his Roto-tiller wouldn't start. Ultimately I had to look inside the engine to get to the problem. The camshaft and drive gear were a single casting and there was once again NO radius in the cam-to-gear mating area. It cracked!!

So, a word to the wise should be sufficient as even folks who should know better design and build parts that have problems built-in.

Posted on: 2012/4/28 8:20
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Re: disc brake conversions
#29
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I added spacers to the rotors duplicating the original wheel-to-hub fit and bored holes in the caliper plates to allow installation of the link. Once again, the 1/2-20 lug nuts seem to work just fine so I won't bother with changing them to 9/16-18 threaded studs.

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Posted on: 2012/4/27 16:23
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Re: disc brake conversions
#30
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I sent another e-mail to Kanter and have had no reply...probably I should call but somehow I just don't feel like it.

I mounted the '48 wheel on the disc rotor assembly and the 1/2" lug nuts seems to center the wheel just fine. However, I will machine a sleeve to go over the appropriate diameter on the rotor and shrink it in place. The sleeve will ultimately have the same O.D. as the locating diameter in the original wheel hub so the wheel will be located by the hub diameter and not the lug nuts. (A quick run-out check will verify that the diameter I'm sleeving is concentric with the spindle, of course.)

Since all lug studs and bolts are made from 190 kpsi steel the 5 1/2-20 lug studs should be adequate to hold the wheels on the car in place of the original 9/16-18 lug bolts.

M.

Posted on: 2012/4/19 14:21
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