Slightly off this subject but maybe a place for an answer.
I posted pictures and details of a replacement filter for the 39:Packard six but a comment by Tim Cole on this post raises a question that I would like answered before I fire my engine.
The lines for the original disposable filter on the 39 both were located on the bottom of the canister.
The new canister for the drop in flitter has one port on the bottom and one on the side.
I ran the higher fitting on the block to the upper fitting on the the filter.
If this is backwards and could affect filtering or oil pressure…simple to reverse lines

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I am not sure if the 37 resembles the vent window on the 39 Six,, but I just pulled the vent window assemblies from my car. Mine is a convertible coupe so anything having doors like a sedan might be different.
I do not think removing the gear assembly itself would entail the same steps.
There are four screws on the outer edge of the vent window assembly on mine which attach the vent frame to the door.
The track for the main window is part of the vent window frame and is attached at the bottom with a bolt and nut which need detached.
The bottom shaft of the vent window runs through a rubber gasket and inserts into the window crank assembly and is held in place by two screws which you loosen.
The window crank assembly on mine is held to the frame with two long bolts that are inside the channel…and which cannot be accessed with a conventional socket.
I cursed Packard engineers again when I tried to fit a wrench but discovered that the bolt ends are attached through the crank mechanism bu two elongated nuts that are easily removed which f frees the window crank assembly.
Since I was interested in removing the entire vent assembly to replace the rubber gaskets around the vent window, I do not know if all of these steps are needed to remove just the gear assembly.
With all of the screws and bolts removed as I spelled out the whole vent window assembly can be wiggles and slid out of the door.
It appears that in order to replace the rubber gaskets it will be necessary to disassemble the vent window frame which may be more difficult.
The weather channel for the main window is attached in 2 pieces to the vent window frame.
As far as I can tell that channel is attached to the frame with tabs that run through the back of the channel. I have opted not to bend the tabs to release the channel until I can locate appropriately sized replacement channel( probably Restoration .specialties) and figure out a way to reattach the channel …possibly short rivets ?
I assume that under that channel there is a screw that will allow the frame of the vent window to be disassembled which will likely be required to insert the top pivot of the assembly through the rubber gasket. The glass will then be installed in the channel and the procedure reversed.
Since Steele sells the gaskets I hope/ assume that someone else has done this and can advise whether my speculation is correct.
I would also like to know whether it will be necessary to paint the top of the door to assure paint under the new rubber gasket ,l..and the weatherstrip that runs along the too of the door for the main window.
I hope this helps.
RJR

The pre- war oil filter canister has been a topic of some prior posts. The sealed canister used on the early cars has not been a stock item for years and NOS replacements when offered are expensive. I do not think that I would want to trust a filter that has been sitting for 80 years.
Some people have bypassed the filter which is also questionable while others have installed spin off or canisters on the inner panel rather than using the original block mount.
I located and installed a canister unit that uses the original block mounting bracket and while I opted for flex rubber hoses, it could be installed with metal lines similar to the original unit with little effort.
The unit is from a Jeep of the 1950’s and was acquired new on eBay .
I got the rubber lines and fitting from
Summit.
The unit uses a drop in filter element that is still available at the NAPA and
Auto Zone locations.
The canister is nearly identical in size to the original cannister which allows use of the original split bracket .I did place a band of rubber over the cannister to assure tight fit.
The pictures are self explanatory.

I opted to replace the generator with a small case alternator that looks like a generator . This unit was also purchased from Summit. While the price was a bit higher than a rebuilt generator, I did not have a core and also avoided having to buy a voltage regulator since it is integrated.
The original bottom bracket will work with the alternator with a little bending . I opted to graft a bracket from an older Ford to the original top bracket rather than creating a new bracket. The original cannot be easily removed without removing the front motor mount. The added bracket was bolted to the groove of the original with three 5/16 bolts and flat washers.
The additional bracket is needed to allow the belt to be tensioned much tighter than required for a generator The alternator will put out 93 amps which should assist with battery charging and powering halogen lights.
Hope this helps someone considering either replacement .
Stay safe
RJR

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If you go on line to Kwik Wire ….they offer color coded wiring diagrams in large dimension that are plastic laminated.
I think the price is around $30 but the larger size,and especially the plastic lamination really comes in handy. Avoids getting your service manual all greasy ….land the larger size and color makes tracing a lot easier.
I have purchased one for all of my old cars.

If you pull the speedometer glass and find a replacement, try to find one where the central bezel is intact and you do not have to try to glue the piece in place. That “ washer” that holds it will probably break ….mine did.
I used a small dab of clear silicone to hood the thing in place.
I reassembled the speedometer and put everything back in place….and discovered the speedometer no longer worked. Pulled it all back out and discovered that the silicone protruded too far….contacted the needle.
There is not much clearance.
Maybe this tip can save you a few hours. LOL
Mike Deilinski May have the glass without buying a whole unit but not a bad idea to have the other pieces .
RJR

PJ- I have no idea but thought it worth mentioning so you can confirm the correct front seal if you are planning to pull the engine.
I believe I ordered the front seal from either Kanter or Max Merritt after the oil bath incident .

I was looking at the most recent Kanter catalog…they send one more frequently than my utility bills..and noticed that they do offer delivery to Europe and other countries.

Hope this helps
Stay safe and enjoy the Packard.
RJR

PJ - Just a follow up . You mention that you have a leak at the crankshaft seal and will be removing the engine.
When my engine was rebuilt, the kit supplied to the shop included a first generation seal which had a smooth metal ring that was pressed into the front cover. Since few builders …and suppliers..have any familiarity with Packards, they used the seal that came with the rebuild package.
This seal was replaced in late 1955 with a “ gnurled” surface since the smooth metal had a tendency to spin in the housing and genrate a messy leak.
I discovered this when mine slipped and sprayed the engine compartment with oil. No damage to the engine but it was a mess.
Please be aware of this update since making the change after the engine is installed is a whole different ballgame.
Life is a learning experience.

PJ- Nice looking car. There are a goodly number of suppliers who offer parts for the 1956 Paxkard here in the US. I am not sure whether they offer international service.
I would suggest doing( or having someone do) a thorough inspection of the mechanicals to determine what you are going to need since it will be far simpler to secure as many of the parts for one shipment than having to deal with multiple orders.
I just gifted some weatherstrip clips to a fellow restorer in Canada and had to complete a customs declaration.
You might wish to contact Kanter Auto Products in Boonton NJ ( 973) 939- 0914 and extension 312 for Bill in the Packard Departmemt.
They have a catalog available for the 55-56 models that they will supply. They may be able to give you some idea of the shipping and other glitches of getting parts from the US.
They offer engine parts including rebuild kits as well as all parts for the braking and exhaust systems.
There are smaller suppliers like Max Merritt, Tucson Packard, Mike Dulinski , John Ulrich and others listed in the vendor section.
I think the windshield may be the hardest part to secure since new glazing is hard to find.
Good luck

Chris— I have around 12-18 clips you can have. Just send me an address ani I will get them in the mail.
I am not sure but you might want to check with Restoratiom Specialties in Windber Pa. Pretty sure they are listed under the suppliers.
They have supplied me with lots of clips and fasteners and they are reasonably priced .

I do not have their current catalog to check availability of theise weather strip clips. They will send a catalog at no cost.
Let me know..
I like Steele’s but agree that some of the prices are off the charts.
Stay safe
RJR

I posted a request yesterday but goofed and placed it in the modification section.

I purchased my car from a local guy who disassembled without taking pictures or bagging/ tagging parts.
I do not have a parts car or have anyone in the area with a 39 to assist with part placement or reassembly.
If anyone has photos from their project or archives of the front end details of the 39 to show wire routing, headlight buckets attachment, inner panel placement , clutch / brake spring locations please email to rjrussell13@atlanticbb.net
I am taking lots of pictures as I muddle through and hope to post to the blog section to assist the next generation.
There is so little in the service manuals and available materials that it gets frustrating.
Thanks in advance for any help
RJE