Try putting the old rotor back in, and check to make sure that the points are properly adjusted and the condenser is not grounded out.

I still have one. Bought it when I had an old MG-A and had to sync the carbs. A bit tricky but once you get the hang of it, they work pretty good. It is nothing but a basic device to make sure you have equal air flow through the carbs.

Thanks Kev. I'll pass that info on to my buddy.

Thanks for the info. I'll pass it on.

Anyone have experience or recommendations for reasonably priced transport services from upstate NY to New Orleans, Louisiana, area? I have a gearhead friend who just purchased a Model A Ford and would like to have it transported in an enclosed trailer. He's gotten one estimate of around $1500, and is not sure if that is reasonable or not. The vehicle is stored indoors and time is not a factor, especially with the weather conditions in the Northeast right now.
TIA,
John

You could measure it after running for a while and experiencing the misfiring. I would try to either redirect an airflow to the resistor or temporarily relocating it as far as possible away from the engine heat, just to see what happens. Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose, but usually if it's heat related, it will be a bad ground or component changing value. I've experienced a lot of crazy problems because of a missing braided ground between the engine block and firewall.
Edited: Was just thinking that you said you measured the resistor wired and cold. To get a true reading, you would have to disconnect the resistor wiring so that you only read the resistor and not the connector or wire, depending on where you place your probe.

Did you actually change the ballast resistor or just measure the value? I have seen them heat up and change value!

If you can find a "V" block somewhere, you can clamp the shaft to it in order to start the drill hole. Or, you might be able to drill a hole the same size as the shaft into a piece of hardwood then cut it in half leaving half the hole, then clamp the shaft into that. Also, the judicious application of a little heat may aid in breaking the joint between the screw and the shaft.

Thanks for the info. That makes sense and since I had decided to go to electric wipers anyway, that takes care of that issue.