Yes, I do remember seeing a diagram showing the proper set up for those in the CCCA Bulletins in the past.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/pfp/e16371_p04_ang.jpg

This is what I installed. I have heard of that happening in the past. I think I will try your suggestion before taking down the tank. I may drain the tank as well into a very clean container and see if there's any crud.

Working on my 1937 Twelve. Car ran & drove great for many years. Starting around 2003 car was only started & driven a short distance once or twice a year with some fresh gas put in. Car still ran & drove great 3 years ago (key point here), but wheel cylinders started getting sticky from inactivity so I laid it up to go over through the brakes. At that time I drained the gas tank and had 13 gallons of varnish on my hands. I got the brakes put back together last October. During the down time I also installed a new electric fuel pump (normally used for priming only). The old one was one of those cylindrical ones from the 1960's with points in it. It didn't work anymore, so I replaced it with an new Airtex rotary type pump. I put fresh gas in the car, started it up & it still ran great. Since the engine hadn't run in two years I let it run for probably half an hour, also using the hand throttle on the dash to run it at higher rpm. Everything seemed fine.....until I tried to drive it on the road.

After pulling out of my driveway and driving it maybe a mile up the road it started to buck like it was starving for gas. It couldn't be vapor lock I thought. It wasn't hot out, and when I tried driving it, it wasn't even fully warmed up. It never had a vapor lock problem in the past either. I turned the electric pump on and that seemed to help. If I turned it off again it would start the same symptoms again after a short time. The car would also die on occasion when coming to a stop at a stop sign. One time I drove down the road without the electric pump and it literally ran out of gas. I pulled to the side of the road, stopped, and tuned on the electric pump and it had to run for a good 15-20 seconds before the car would start again.

My thought was that the fuel pump diaphragm had weakened from sitting for 2 years with our modern alcohol laden gasoline. The pump was last rebuilt in 1999 in preparation of driving it to Warren, OH for the Centennial. So, this spring I had the fuel pump rebuilt by Antique Auto Cellar in MA. Put the rebuilt pump back on, drove the car, nothing changed or improved. Car still acted like it was starving for gas.

My next thought was either the gas tank has crap in it and is clogging the pick up tube, or the carburetor is gummed up. Since it's a lot easier to throw a kit in a carb than it is to drop the gas tank, I did the carb first. My thought was maybe it's gummed up or the accelerator pump was bad. Upon taking the carb apart I found the fuel bowl part did have a bunch of loose crap in it, and the accelerator pump has largely disintegrated. The carb had not been apart since the 1960's. I thought for sure this was my problem. I took it all apart, cleaned it thoroughly, used compressed air to blow out all the passages and put it back together
with new gaskets and a new accelerator pump.

Got the carb back on the car today. Drove the car, same results. Still starves for gas after driving a short distance. Still runs out of gas & needs the electric pump run to get it to start again. If I keep the electric pump on while driving it, it will stay running & drive OK.

So now my thought is that it is the gas tank. I think there's crap floating around in there and it's getting sucked into the pick up tube when the car is driving at a higher rpm. I'll post a picture of the electric fuel pump too. I don't think it's blocking the flow of fuel as the car will idle in the yard all day long. It's just when it's under load at a higher rpm that the symptoms emerge. But why would it run in the yard OK with the throttle pulled out to say, 1500 RPM, and not starve for gas?

Before I put the car away for the winter & pull the gas tank I'll ask: What do you guys think? The gas tank was last done in the early 1970's. The Bill Hirsch treatment was used at that time: the tank was sloshed with rust remover, then sloshed with a neutralizer, and then some type of sealer put in. I'm wondering if the alcohol in the gas has loosened the sealer.

Put a rebuild kit from Classic & Exotic in my EE 3 carburetor. The old accelerator pump had disintegrated to almost nothing from our modern gasoline. The new pump fits in OK, but doesn't move and down as freely as the old one. This is the type with the round spring behind a leather disc. I put a very light film of oil on the accelerator pump cylinder in the carb housing to lubricate it for the leather pump. Is it normal for these accelerator pumps to be a little stiff right at first when installing them, and that they need to be broken in a bit?

To further this discussion, what is the difference between 1941/42 180 senior hubcaps for 16" rims, and the postwar senior hubcaps on 15" rims? I heard the hubcap is the same diameter, but the retaining rim may differ. Anyone know the difference there?

So for clarification, if you put a Custom 8 hubcap on a 5 1/2 inch rim the hubcap will stay on, but if you put a standard hubcap on a 6" rim it could fall off. Am I reading this right?

Someone please go through for me the different types of 15" steel wheels 1948-50 Packards used. I have some that are 6" wide, and some that are 5 1/2" wide. I assume the 6" wide was used on the Custom series, but was this wider wheel used on the 327 engined Super Eight Packard's too?

Thanks guys. Do you think NAPA would have it?

When rebuilding an EE3 or EE22 carbureror from the 1930's, what kind of black paint to restorers use now? I assume it has to be something somewhat gasoline and heat resistant.

Part of the equation is the economics of supply and demand. For most Classics of the 1920's - 40's there's a lot more sedans of any given model than open cars. This goes for Cadillac, Lincoln ,Pierce Arrow, Stutz, ect. And then there's the styling of closed cars of this era. No offense, but a lot of 1920's & early 30's production sedans look like shoe boxes on wheels. The roadsters & phaetons looked a lot better with their lower raked windshields. So when you have a car that was 1. made in far less numbers than a sedan, and 2. styling wise looks a lot better, that car is going to command a higher price. Heck, the same logic applies to Model A Fords and 1950's & 60's cars too.